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steering arm removal
OK, I am not sure what the piece is called, but I am trying to remove the steering arm from my dana 44hd axle and I have run into some trouble. Its a 1970 axle, and the piece is the hooked piece attached directly to the axle, there is a link between it and the pitman arm.
I pulled 3 nuts off of the studs that run through it, but I can't seem to get it off, are the studs threaded into the steering arm as well? If so, whats the best way to get the studs out? (grind flats on them and pull them off?). I can get a pic. if it helps clarify the issue. |
Re: steering arm removal
Oh fun....been there done that!
I know what your talking about. Those 3 studs have cone shaped spacers with slots in them and the wide end of the cone is on top. 1. Lube them up with WD-40 or something like it and let it sit for a few min. 2. Smack with a 3lb hammer a couple of time each side of the casing that holds the 3 studs (easy to do when the axle is out from under the truck) 3. If your axle is out of the truck rotate the axle upside down and smack it a few times on the bottom side. Watch and see if the cones fall out. 4. You should see those cone shaped spacers pop loose. 4. Insert a small flat tip screwdriver into the slots [not to far or you will spread the cone spacer making it tighter] and try to spin them out. Either direction is ok, they are not threaded. 5. Once all 3 cones are removed the whole assy should come off of the axle. ... If not give it a couple more hits w/ a hammer. |
Re: steering arm removal
yea there a beech i just did it a couple of weeks ago. lots of penitrating oil and a big old hammer. i didn't realize the were cones and thought they were just lock washers rusted on there and messed them all up. even after removing the cones the stearing arm must come off them studs straight, good luck
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Re: steering arm removal
This question is often asked and I answer it just as often. I really don't know why as no one seems to listen to me:lol: . The cone washer can be removed with a large socket and a big hammer. The socket must be a larger diameter than the cone washer. Place the socket against the steering arm(on the top) with it surrounding one of the washers. Smack down with the hammer against the socket. The impact will shock or vibrate the washer and cause it to pop out. You don't need a torch or even penetrating oil (although I am sure that the oil won't hinder the operation). Don't hit the arm from the bottom trying to knock the washers out this will only make it tighter. It's the same principle as using two hammers to remove a steering wheel. You remove the wheel retaining nut from the column and place a hammer against the shaft. Strike the first hammer with another big hammer. The steering wheel will fall off in your lap! Best of luck to you and feel free to ignore me like everyone else:lol: . I don't claim to know everything but I do have experience with this operation. Big socket, big hammer the steering arm should be on the ground in short order. Heck it worked for me!:metal:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y18...0/100_0390.jpg |
Re: steering arm removal
ok......the socket thing didn't work....and I have beaten this arm so hard that it is now officially forged! I am making progress, I got ONE out......i started drilling at the split, and then 180 degrees from there.......got the second one done, and filled with wd-40.....hopefully things will set in over night, and tomorrow I can get the last two out.........unless anyone else has a surefire tip that has been overlooked.
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Re: steering arm removal
damn when all else fails break out the air chisel... I know that arm is a *****... I remember when I lifted my old truck and tried to put the new arm in I think I eventually just gave up and rigged something... those where in my younger... not so smart days though... good luck... and I 15 buck air chisel is deff a good investment...
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Re: steering arm removal
You can also try heating up the axel where the studs screw in and back out the studs with a visegrip. I can hook you up with a link for a new kit (studs,taper bushings,nuts) for ~$25.00. Ill have to dig for it. I think the dealer wanted ~$100.00.
Let me know. |
Re: steering arm removal
good info seeten if i ever do this again i will try that first. it makes sence to me as long as it is done first before they are wedged from pounding or bougered up in some other way
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Re: steering arm removal
For clarification, can anyone post a related pic.
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Re: steering arm removal
I will take a pic when I get home tonight
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Re: steering arm removal
3 replacement cones & 3 studs w/washers = $9 at local 4x4 shop.
Big Hammer = PRICLESS!:hc: |
Re: steering arm removal
Hit it hard with a big hammer. You want to hit on the side of the arm near where the holes where the studs/cones come through. What you are trying to do is to hit it hard enough to (temporarily) deform the holes in the arm a little bit so that the cone washers will loosen up and come out. You will never get it off by hitting down on it, or up on the free end of the arm. You need a sledge hammer. This same technique is used to get the tapered fit tie rod ends and drag link ends apart. I can get them off in five minutes guaranteed this way.
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Re: steering arm removal
2 Attachment(s)
here's a pic of the arm and the cones after I drilled all of the cones to get enough play in them......oh yeah, and about a thousand wacks with a big hammer, even with the cones out, it didn't want to come off easily.
The axle I bought is a corp 10 bolt....not sure if the studs were pulled and the holes tapped, but the steering arm will have to be installed with 3 bolts, and 3 tapered cones. p.s. does anyone have the part numbers for those cones....there doesn't seem to be any good autoparts stores around here |
Re: steering arm removal
i need a set of them myself. no luck finding them yet
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Re: steering arm removal
This shows the studs, cone washers, and locking nuts.
And here are the studs and cone washers part numbers. GM calls the cone washers "adapters". Stud 3965137 Adapter (cone washer) 3965138 Each of these were about $3.50 a piece. So it cost me under $24 for the studs and washers per side. And GM does not sell the nuts (or at least my local dealer said they were not available). It is a 9/16-18 that's needed. TriCounty Gear also sells the hardware separately. $20 for the 3 9/16-NF studs, 3 conical "washers" and the 3 9/16 aircraft "stover" nuts:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: |
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I swapped this arm over to my corp 10 bolt, went out and got some 9/16ths fine thread grade 8 bolts and threaded them into the axle......is there enough metal in direct contact with that arm and the bolts, or do I need to put the cone washers on there with these grade 8 bolts?
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Re: steering arm removal
personaly i would not use bolts but studs, and would not even think about not using new cones
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Re: steering arm removal
whats the difference between screwing in a stud, and screwing in a bolt?
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Re: steering arm removal
The tapered cones are designed to be used with studs.
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Re: steering arm removal
You need the cones in there. The studs/bolts are in shear, and the cones are the only way to take all of the play out. It is kind of an important component to your personal safety.
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Re: steering arm removal
and the hits just keep on comin' 72-stomper, I appreciate the part numbers.....but my local parts stores can't cross reference GM part numbers (ARE YOU FREAKIN' KIDDING ME!), anyway.....does anyone know what numbers I need to use to actually get these parts from a parts store, or am I stuck buying these and the rest of my parts online?
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Re: steering arm removal
I spent countless hours trying to find these locally. No luck, so I called tri country gear. The link is in my other reply..Nice kit....
Have Fun...:barf: :barf: |
Re: steering arm removal
Well, I gave up.....if any of you have read my post about parts store satisifaction, you know my current state of frustration over a simple axle swap.....I figured by the time I found a place that carried these parts, I could have received them in the mail.
72 stomper, thanks for all the help....it probably would have taken me at least a couple of days to track down tri-county.....looks like the truck lies immobile for at least another 4 days. |
Re: steering arm removal
THE SOCKET THING WORKED!!!!!!!!
I was beating on this steering arm for an hour with my sledge, I had heard they were a *****. I finally searched and found this posting. I started beating on my socket and was thinking this wasn't going to work but finally out of frustration, I just kept beating on the socket and ssshaaazzzzam ! the center cone came lose and then I worked it out with a screw driver. The front cone came out too, but the back one was very stubborn as I hit the cone a few times with the socket because there isn't much meat on the steering arm back there. SO I got the flat tip for my air chisel and hit the socket with it and that back cone came dancing out of there. YEEEE HAAAW And the best part is that I don't have to mess with auto parts stores and replacement part numbers. |
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Re: steering arm removal
i have pulled lots of these and never had heard of the socket trick. i must just be stronger than the lot of yall, cause i just hit them and they come flying out in to your pocket and the new arm gets so scared it installs its self.
i have a couple set of cones if people still need them and have good access to lots more. |
Re: steering arm removal
I ended up taking the whole knuckle off so I could work on it in a vice with more room. I welded the nuts on with an arc welder and used a wrench to back the whole stud out. It worked like a charm but then I had to buy new hardware.
GM said they were discontinued and wanted $27/adapter and $18/stud. So I ordered mine off Ebay for a little over $20 shipped and in the meantime went to a bulk fastener place and they had the adapters and grade 8 bolts. |
Re: steering arm removal
What`s all this WD-40 talk?No one heard of PB-Blaster?You`ll always have a can once you try it.And,only use WD to lube.
When whacking with a hammer,for those non-socket believers,it`s always helped to remove the tie-rod to allow hitting closer to the knuckle. I've tryed talking to it,doesn`t help.I ended up yelling. Another option is buy a whole new axle from DynaTrac,just bolt-in."ping" |
Re: steering arm removal
I got mine off rather easy after posting.
I took the nuts off and soaked it with wd40. wd40 is common, most places don't carry pb blaster or anything only crc and wd40 or liquid wrench. Plus what I seen before wd40 is cheaper then pb blaster. Anyways I tried hitting every which way with a ball peen hammer, no luck. Finally I jacked the truck up, only under the axle enough to get the driver's side off the ground, put a jackstand right under the arm, let it down. So the weight of the truck was now on the arm itself. I then removed the driver's wheel and tires, and took my 10lb(I think) sledge and tapped on the arm, couldn't get a big swing due to the fender but after 10 whacks they were all out and loose. We hit it right where that link bolts in and right on top the jackstand just kind of jumping around, then kind of focused on the hole where the link bolts. Came right out. I agree we were going to pull the axle out and hit it with a sledge which would have been easy since we were lifting it. Only had u bolt holding it in, and the day before nothing was holding it. |
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