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Preferred wiring harness
What is the best option? I had a painless but sold it.
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get another one. why get rid of it?
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I have a Painless in my truck and I have a painless in my race car also. They are not the cheapest for a reason. They are nice and well thought out.
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I'm happy with painless. Summit Racing had the best price when I bought. Part 10206.
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Have been using M&H wire harnesses all along.
All plug and play OE style, and the customer service is very good. |
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I have the American Autowire Classic Update kit. Check all the websites for the above kits and this one, then do the reviews.
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M and H is too expensive for me. Has anyone used EZ wiring harness here is a link
http://ezwiring.com/wiring_harness.html, I am looking at the one that is $185. |
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I'm having a Keep It Clean harness installed in my 67 currently, because thats what the guy doing the install asked me to get.
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I have a Painless...it wasn't. They don't tell you, until you open the box and read the instructions, they don't supply all (some but not all) of the factory plugs or bulkhead grommets and the headlight portion of the harness is split at the headlight plugs, needing to be "butt" splice connected, crimp connectors supplied by them. I am not a fan of "butt" splicing. Soldiering and heat shrink tubing is the only way to go.
I got a good deal when I bought it from Summit. I think I paid $365 and Painless was giving $100 back. I spent an additional $100 - $150 on other wiring supplies: heat shrink tube (four different sizes), nylon braided wire loom (two different sizes), several sizes of nylon wire ties, grounding kit from Summit/Ron Francis (ground buss, heavy braided ground strap and misc. ground wire), several (four) relays and several (6 - 8) watertight connectors. Don't skimp on dedicated grounds for all of the different devices in your electrical system, individual lights, alternator, gas tank fuel level sender, radio, air conditioner...you get the idea. If you have a goofey electrical problem, it's a ground. |
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I used EZ Wiring in my project truck and liked the kit, considering it was a universal kit. For a universal kit and the money it costs me, I thought it was great. All wires were labeled and I had plenty of wire length for each section going to the front and rear. It did come with the plug for the column also.
I have never used the Painless or American Autowire so can't comment on those, although I have heard good things about them. |
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I have an E-Z wire kit in our hot rod was good quality .and good customer support.
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I'm using american auto wire in my 72 if i can do it anyone can def a good choice
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I am usally a believer in you get what you pay for but I am leaning towards the E-Z harness due to price.
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I had a painless and sold it because my factory harness is in good shape. What I have learned from my LSx swap is, there are not enough additional "ignition on" circuits in the factory harness. I would like to see a harness that contains all of the original circuits with additional circuits for fuel injection equipped trucks. I like the way Ron Francis kits are not pre-terminated so that you can install only what you need. With the 18 and 21 circuit kits you end up with extra wires tucked all over the place. Seems to me there is room to improve what is available for the after-market.
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I used the american autowire in my build, great quality and service, much better than the painless imo.
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Board member Wes, at Classic Heartbeat, got me the M&H harnesses and beat the prices that M&H has posted on their website. Give him a shout.
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Btw, I got my AAW Classic Update kit from him, its great. Plenty of extra circuits for whatever, as well. |
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I did not call Wes I called M & H. I have nothing bad to say about Wes.
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M&H is the manufacturer... They will be the first ones to tell you that they prefer you to buy from places like Classic Heartbeat, they will not be selling the product cheaper than their distributors.
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Well like some have said in the thread. It depends on your skills and if you want to cut your firewall so the harness fits. We sell exclusively M&H and American Autowire because they are the best on the market! Hands Down! They fit perfectly, have exact looms and plugs and use the same color coding that GM did. Their classic update kits for the guys with electric everything love them also, because you don't need in-line fuses to protect your parts. The kits have the fuses built into the fuse panels. I have rewired several trucks from 1955 to 1972 and I do not have a complaint one about them. Well mayby I complain about laying on my back to wire under the dash..lol oh and I didn't understand one of the schematics of the classic autowire updated wireing kits. (however M&H was very patient with me while they explained to me what I wasn't seeing in the schematic.) So I would buy what you want to buy, but beware that some of the kits being pushed in this thread require you altering your truck to make it fit and require you using some of your old parts. M&H nor American auto wire will require that. WES
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I'm only going by your avatar for what kind of harness you are shopping for, so I just wanted to remind you and let you know that the Suburban dash harness is different than the pick ups (and more expensive).
There is a large harness that comes off the fuse block to feed the rear half of the Suburban. At the time of my purchase (few years back) M&H was the only company making a Suburban dash harness, and rear harness that runs the length of the Suburban up the A pillar and along the roof. |
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Didn't see it mentioned above but I really like the Ron Francis harnesses.
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Where the fuse panel passes through the firewall the fuse panel is too large. You have to enlarge that hole for the painless harness. I don't have any personal experience with Ron Francis wiring, but I have a customer with a 74 that paid a shop 1500.00 to install one. I told him he could have installed M&H he could have done himself. WES
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I just got my M+H from Wess last week and it was a perfect match and fit. :mm: :chevy:
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I used American auto wire classic update perfect fit
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When you intall these kits, do you begin by pulling all the old wiring out completely or do you run one of the new wires and then pull out the old wire one at a time?
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Pull all old stuff out
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I'm using a painless harness on both of mine. I've used the P/W on 2 other previous projects and other than a few plugs I had to overcome & fabricate...they went very smoothly and I had plenty of extra switched & unswitched circuits. 1 has been going strong for 15+ yrs.
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