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Clouds of white coming out of one side of exhaust
Drove my truck this morning and noticed clouds of white "smoke" coming out the drivers side exhaust, got an occasional whiff of antifreeze and my radiator was low on coolant. I'm assuming I have a bad head gasket, any way to verify?
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Re: Clouds of white coming out of one side of exhaust
Sorry to hear that, always a bummer when something like this happens. One simple thing to do is hold your hand at the exhaust tip and see if it smells like antifreeze or oil.
You can do a compression test on the coolant system. My mechanic showed me a compression test with a clear tube attached to the coolant system and it changed color if any air/exhaust bubbles got into the coolant. |
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Just checked my oil and it looks a little milky, more like brown. I did smell antifreeze while it was running.
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Yeah, doesn't sound good. Sorry bud.
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Hate to say it, but the last time I replaced a head gasket for the exact problem you're having, it didn't fix the crack that was causing it. Tear the head off and carefully examine the gasket. If no issues the have the head checked. No sense doing much more testing. It's not only walking like a duck, it's quacking as well. Off with its head!
Jeff |
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Yea, I'm thinking new engine, there's so much water in the oil and I had to drive it about ten miles to get home, i didn't hear any bad noise but I'm sure I started the process of ruining the bearings. Thinking back it's been stumbling in the mornings, I had to rev it a little to get it to smooth out so its probably been leaking coolant in the cylinder and oil for some time.
Anyone have a good recommendation for new 350s for a 72 Gmc? |
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I just bought a 290 hp GM performance long block from Jegs for about $2000. Runs great.
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Or this http://www.jegs.com/p/Chevrolet-Perf...52506/10002/-1 Or this if you need a new balancer, intake, HEI. Comes with gaskets. http://www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet-Perf...d=#moreDetails If you want more power, put an RV cam in it before you install it. I'd go smaller than the cam in the 350-290HP, IMO, .222int-.222ex duration @ .050" is too much for 8:1 compression and shorts you on torque. I'd get something around .210-.220 duration @ .050" and 112 degree lobe centers and less than .450 lift, ought to be good for around 275HP and 350 ft/lbs of torque. |
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No I had it delivered to my mechanic's shop. They would've delivered to my house though. The 290 hp is lower on torque (325 ft lbs)than the 260 hp version (350 ft lbs). But I wasn't changing the cam or anything. I made up some torque with my intake and exhaust.
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Hey what's the warranty stipulations on those Jegs Goodwrench 350s. I heard you had to have them installed by certified mechanic to validate warranty.
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I had mine installed by a mechanic cause I didn't have the time after working two jobs. The warrant was 3 yrs/100,000 mi.
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I just answered my own question above: here's what's on Jegs site. Plus I just called and spoke with them. Basically your on your own to fight any warranty issues with no leg to stand on if I install myself. Guess they look for any reason not to honor warranty. Which is not a GM thing just a regular Corporate America thing.
Warranty coverage is based on months/mileage, whichever comes first, and begins on the date of installation by an authorized GM dealer or by a qualified Independent Service Center (ISC). For all other over-the-counter sales, warranty begins on date of retail sale. PS, sorry if I got off topic. But seems like you may be going this route if you get the news we all think when you pull heads. |
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I drained a little oil out of it and found a lot of metal shavings, I'm pretty sure now that it's had water in the oil for some time, I'm not even going to bother pulling the heads, I'd rather just buy a new engine than have this one start knocking a few months later, I only want to pull the engine once. I haven't decided what to get yet but I need to do it soon, I drive this truck every day. What would you guys put in a 72 gmc 4X4, th350. I live in the mountains and only tow my teardrop trailer with the truck, it's my daily driver. I'd like to keep it around $2000. Thanks for the suggestions! |
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I would do a stockish ("RV" type cam) 350. It'll do everything you want, make good vacuum, run at elevation, etc
Jeff |
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But maybe Jeg's is flawed in their thinking. If a shop messes it up they will have every reason why it was a defective engine and they get paid to do it over. The owner, on the other hand, does not want to do it twice. |
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$2000 can be done but it will be a tight squeeze. It becomes all about your tolerance for re-bolting old and iffy parts back onto your new pack. Distributor, oil pump, water pump.... it all starts adding up.
I will be allocating $4000-$5000 and it's because I plan to get new everything within reason. And that includes radiator. |
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What ever you decide to do you need to do it soon, that engine isn't going to last very much longer in it's current condition.
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Well here`s what I did, I found a local machine shop Portland Or, that built me a 340hp 4 bolt main with speed pro-pistons and cam, double roller timing chain, high volume oil pump, numbers matching block and heads build sheet and 6 month warrenty for $1495 exchange had to add intake, new starter and misc but he installed the intake as well. Runs great, great oil pressure and very happy with the engine. Now that being said itonly has a 6 month warrenty but if something is wrong with a SBC its going to happen at break in. I would look around unless you want to keep it numbers matching find a good engine rebuilder or this guy might ship you one.
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if it is getting rebuilt, make sure you use a oil that is meant for breaking in engine(s) and not the stuff you buy for a regular oil change ..
one of my friend(s) is getting an engine redone AGAIN because he didnt realize that =0/ |
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I like the prices of the internet engines but there's something about an Amazon type purchase with an engine that I cannot get past. I like to look someone in the eye and shake a greasy calloused hand on a deal when it comes to something like this. I've bought many engines this way. Bought one for my sons car last year after he spun a rod. Why do I buy from these types of shops in lieu of doing myself. Because the last 6 or 7 engines I've bought have caught me at a bad time when I've not had the time to dicker with pulling a pack and gathering parts. Example: The truck I have right not threw a rod and destroyed the engine back in the late 80s with about 70,000 miles. I was in my last year of college. I took it to a re-manufacture shop, I think I paid around $600-700 back then. They had 350s O' plenty back then! I drove out of the shop a couple days later. It was a life saver for me. That same engine is in the truck three owners later. It has over 100,000K and it's tired, but it's been a good engine. And that shop is still there and they are the ones that did my sons engine last year. |
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Yeah man just get a GM crate motor and be done with it, quick and easy, can't go wrong there.
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There are no rebuild shops around me unfortunately and the two auto shops in town are ridiculously expensive, they wanted $3000 to rebuild my tranny and they would send it to the same place I paid $800 to finally do it. I just can't spend much more than $2000 right now, just bought new tires last week, kinda sucked up a bit of my cash flow.
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It might be worth a trip to Redding. Just for the hell of it you should call a place like American & Import and see what they say. At least you will have a third price. I guess one of the good things about being in L.A. (and there ain't many) is there is a crap load of these types of shops. And the good guys will usually spend a few minutes to give you their honest 2 cents.
But then again I'm kinda strange, as I like working the phones! Good luck! American & Import Engines 1301 E Cypress Ave, Redding, CA 96002 (530) 222-2550 |
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Check this deal out from Speedway motors, inexpensive and free shipping!
Long Block http://www.speedwaymotors.com/GM-Per...ine,69874.html |
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My truck has a 4" lift on 33" tires, I doubt I'll find a lift in my area to go high enough to clear the rad support and grill, I don't want to pull the front end apart so I'm thinking of pulling the front tires or letting the air out of the tires to drop the truck enough. Can any of you see an issue with doing so?
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I usually put a floor jack on the cross-member or front diff and just let it down all the way or on wooden blocks, but to clear the cherry picker you might need to strategically place the blocks under the axle, but I'm not sure even then you will be able to extend the lift boom in there deep enough to not risk flipping the lift over and damaging things. You have to drain the coolant anyway I think in the long run if you pull the rad support first it will be so much easier than all the climbing up and down over and over and squeezing yourself in there and all the possible damage to the fenders I've done it both ways and I always pull the rad support now. It's not as intimidating as it looks if you have never done it before. Bumper, grill, A/C lines if you have them, trans lines if you have them, coolant hoses on the engine side only, wires, support bolts, fender bolts, etc. I see no reason to remove the radiator, shroud, headlights, washer bottle, voltage reg if you have it from the support. Get it down to the last couple bolts then get a friend to help remove it or use the cherry picker with some tie-down straps. Remove the carb first, then if you use a tight enough lift chain/s you can usually get the engine out without removing the hood, IF you remove the core support so that should ease the pain a little. |
Re: Clouds of white coming out of one side of exhaust
Do you have an old set of rims around? put them on and drive her in the garage...
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