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'69 GMC resuscitation
I’m new to the board. I have been reading threads for several days now, but I am likely to make newbie mistakes (like asking too much in a single thread), so please bear with me.
The story: My father-in-law is passing his ’69 GMC to my younger son—through me. Basic details of the truck are in my signature. (I will update it as I get smarter.) My father-in-law bought the truck when it was 1yo. It was his camper truck and then farm truck. The truck has been undriven since ’94 and has been garaged in a shed in Eastern WA most of its life (read as “negligible rust” and “essentially original”). My task is to make it mechanically reliable again. The target is for a reliable frequent use vehicle that doesn’t mind getting messy. And that is where I can use help. 1. Can any of you help me find threads that talk about experiences with ‘waking up’ a Rip Van Winkle truck from a 20 year sleep? And in general, am I foolish to think that a truck this old and this long untouched can be revived to the point of being dependable again short of replacing the bulk of the guts? I will be visiting the truck this week (and hauling it back within a couple more weeks). I will post pictures and SPID when I get over the Pass. But I’m hoping this board can help with some details/prep in the meantime: 2. Parts: Am I going to find it easy to locate the parts that will be needed? And more importantly, where should I be looking? Those board members from the Puget Sound area, I would love to hear about brick-and-mortar choices. From the rest of you, sources on the Web would be appreciated. And I got a sniff in a few threads that some of you on the board supply parts, so if you do, shoot me an email/PM please with a description of what niche you serve. 3. Split rims: The truck is currently ‘wearing’ its original split rims. What little I know about split rims says that I should retire the rims in favor of non-split rims. Comments? Any suggestions for what I should be looking for in replacements? How do I find a place that will demount the existing tires so that I can cubby hole the split rims to go with the truck when it someday goes to a new owner? (I do want to try to honor the original designers of this rig, even if it means hanging onto parts that have been pulled off of it during this resuscitation.) 4. Broken leaf spring: During its camper days, one of the leaf springs cracked. How big a deal is this to live with? The truck needs to haul occasional loads (moving day or bulk soil), but it will never be asked to work like it did with a camper on its back. In the general knowledge category: 5. Being a full length bed that isn’t a stepside, does that make it LWB in the board’s lingo? 6. And with 3/4ton with 2wd, am I going to find that it is a C20? 7. My father-in-law referred to it as a Camper Special, but from reading I assume he actually means Custom Camper. Just what does Camper Special/Custom Camper mean in the actual scheme of things? My father-in-law says that he has been given the wrong water pump and brake pads before because he didn’t specify Camper Special to the parts dealer. Does that jive with actuality, and what other details change from a stock 3/4ton? 8. Can any of you give me the concise version of apples-to-apples? By that I mean what model years will match this engine, body, etc. (I assume I need to get photos posted for the transmission and such to get the full spectrum.) 9. And similar to #8, how interchangeable are GMC’s and Chevy’s around this time frame? Thanks for whatever help you can give me with the learning curve. |
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If it's the original 305... it will be a V6.
Gary |
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First, welcome to the forum.
We do like pictures so when it is possible, pop some in. Wes http://www.classicheartbeat.com/default.htm is up in your state. It would be a good idea to contact him and I am sure that he can find anything that you need and answer questions that you have. We all here will answer anything that we can also. I personally am a bit lost on quite a few things on these trucks compared to 99% of the people on this site. I do not know of how much help that I can be, but I'll try when I can. |
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Welcome i am just a bit south of you in Tacoma. sound like you have a nice truck to work on. a good place to get parts new and used is franks pick up trucks in Olympia.
check out my link http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=659403 |
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Well first off with the exception of motor stuff [when you said 305 I assume it is a big V-6 ]the parts interchangeability between the Chevy and the GMC is limited to the front sheet metal [grille and fenders, core support]the rest is pretty much the same truck there are some trim differences but minor.
2: The parts you need are gonna be somewhat easy to find they may have to be ordered and you have to wait a day or so but that is getting to be common now so that stores don't have to stock a bunch of stuff and let the warehouse do it. 3: The use of one piece wheels are much safer and any one who is gonna change the tires will thank you. Some guys won't do split wheels any more [cause they have to have a cage to put the wheel in and many don't have that] 4:Broken spring yeah it is gonna hold back the amount of weight it can haul but this greatly depends on witch one it is as to how important it is. 5: Yes being a 3/4 it would most likely be a lwb with a 127 wheelbase. 6:No, being a GMC they carried different designations than the Chevy's C10 [for 1/2 ton] C20[for 3/4 ton] and C-30[for one ton]. The GMC's carry the designation C1500[1/2 ton] C2500[ 3/4 ton] and 3500[one ton] Unless it is our neighbors to the north then it goes weird 910[1/2ton] 920[3/4 ton] and 930[ I don't think I've never seen a Canuck one ton?]but I'm pretty sure they made them. 7: Camper Special was a Ford designation if I am correct not used on any GM truck. 8: You need to post up more info on what you have so we can better see for ourselves about what is going on and what you have a shot of the SPID maybe [sticker in the glovebox] 9:A lot of the stuff is interchangeable 68-72 alot of the 67 stuff will fit too but it was the first year model of that style and it didn't have side marker lamps and the interior was a little different. The 68 is normally lumped in with the 67's and the 69 are put with the 70's as the grilles were the same on the Chevy's and 71-2's were the same basic truck except for some trim changes and door changes that are minor. Do a search on the search bar about interchange and you can find months worth of reading, enough to get you through the rest of the winter. Jim |
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thanks for the welcomes and responses--especially hugger6933.
I know I owe photos and will get those up soon. GASoline71--I wish the engine compartment would end up like yours, but I don't have the 4 year timeline. Maybe downstream of here.... For helping my son out with this, I made him promise me that I get first right of refusal on the truck when/if he decides to get something else in the future. |
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hi odis, what part of seattle are you in? We need to see some pics.
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welcome..basic revival in my opinion,means draining the fuel,inspecting all rubber fuel lines and replace as neccesary,make sure there isnt any rust in the fuel tank,it will probably need brakes,carb may need a rebuild, when an engine has been sitting that long,i like to pull the plugs and crank it a bit to get some oil flowing before starting it..lots of good parts sources in the NW...most wrecking yards will have a good supply of 16" 8 lug steelies or pretty ones to put on your truck..
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So there was no mechanical problem with the engine before the sleep? How good of a mechanic are you? I would want to ID what engine it is, do you know how to pull the distributor and reinstall it correctly? You can prime the oil system by removing the distributor and reach in with an oil priming rod on a drill motor and re prime the system. Of course i'd want to change the oil first. I think an inline 250 you can use a long screwdriver blade sans the handle.
Fuel system will need to be gon thru, minum fuel filter and carb rebuild. ![]() The second poster on this thread has some good advice. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=560928 I can almost bet no tire shop will want to deal with split rims due to safety concerns, i'd be looking for replacements ether at a local junk yard or craigs list. if i remember correctly i think its a 6.5" pattern but i'd have to go measure one again. Of course the usual stuff like coolant need to be checked, the water hoses and belt are probably pretty dry rotted as well. Take a plug wrench and check the rear plugs at least for oil fouling too. EDIT: welcome from Spanaway. |
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First, for all the reading I had done on this board, I had no sense the PNW was this well represented. Thanks for responding.
Swamp Rat: you should be a detective. There was a problem that got this truck put into extended timeout. My father-in-law had the valve push rods replaced in '93. When he got it back the plugs would foul every couple of weeks. He claims that it is the seals that are bad, but he didn't need the truck anymore so he just parked it thinking he would get to it himself in retirement. And no, I am no kind of mechanic. I have wood dust in my veins. Third generation on that. If you have something wrong in your house I can fix it. But my experience under the hood is limited to the easy stuff--water pumps, alternators, plugs, etc. This project is only possible because I have a good (maybe great) mechanic in N.Seattle. What I am doing on this site is trying to prepare myself for all the decisions that are going to be made soon. leadfoot067: Thanks, I have budgeted for any fluid system (oil, transmission, coolant, brake--am I missing any?) to be drained/flushed. I have experienced this already keeping my wife's '93 Camry on the road. And I am assuming that pulling the carb and having it cleaned/inspected is a starting point too. SeattleGMC: I am north end of LkWA, but the truck will end up in the Bay Area where my son is in school. |
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So I visited the project and have photos to share.
One of the truck in the shed, another of the SPID, and another of the engine compartment. I was pleasantly surprised with what I found. Both the oil and transmission fluid were liquid (and full). The hoses were all still pliable. I was kind of shocked at how well things have aged, though I have to give credit to my father-in-law who has kept it out of the sun and weather for all these years. Everything does have a coat of E.WA dust, and the underside has plenty of dried farm mud. I misunderstood my father-in-law about the engine. It is a 307 V8. I welcome all remarks to help me figure out the other details/specs. I have read two of the color threads. My color sense isn't very good, but I don't think I have seen this color anywhere else--unless under the dust this is simply 'grapefruit'. I'll haul it back in about a week. I hope to pressure wash some of it once it is on the trailer to leave as much dust/dirt as I can in E.WA |
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I don't think i have ever seen that color to be honest.. I do think you have a jewel in the rough.
I'm gonna guess it has minimal rust being as it was garaged so long. Being as your bringing it to W.Wa make sure the gutter is sealed tight and has no cracks in the sealer. one more thing you may want to do is check over the windshield molding for cracking, also look for water (when it rains) in the glove box and the bottom lip of the dash. My truck had a huge gap in the body panels on the passenger side bottom of the windshield under the cowl where 3 panels are spot welded together. Be sure to pull the floor mat and make sure its dry on the floor too. |
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Welcome from Texas! Another 4-eyed :gmc2: saved......keep the pics coming!!!
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JMHO...If you can wrench on a '93 Camry, you should have no problem working on the '69. If you have a Q-jet carb, you can fix it yourself. I've done em way before the internet, and Im no mechanic. Good luck...don t. ... |
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Now that's what I call a barn find!
Special paint too, interesting that it is listed twice on the spid. ...and welcome aboard from Florida! |
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That's neat, I'm looking forward to seeing it out of the barn and hosed off
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Here is a shot of some of the underside. I have found no rust that amounts to a structural problem. The hubcaps may be a loss, but I am having to change the rims anyway, so doubt they would fit the new rims anyway. |
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My father-in-law scored lots of points with me this past w/e when I went out to see the truck and sitting in the bed was a carb rebuild kit still in its shrinkwrap, four 'new' brake pads, and a 'new' oil filter that he has been hanging onto since he put the truck away 20 years ago. |
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The truck is that color throughout, no second color anywhere. All I can guess on the two callouts on the SPID is that the ZP3 calls out that a special color is going to be applied and the 1001MC is the spec of the actual color. But that is just a wild guess. |
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Great barn find. Interesting color too. Good luck with it, these truck are actually very simple to work on.
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If your a supporting member you can sell the hubcaps on the for sale board. They are worth selling.
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Cool truck....can't wait to see how it works out. |
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The mount to the driver's side of these replacements has partially failed, so either repairing the existing or reverting got added to the bottom of the (long) to-do list. But while these mirrors may not be my f-i-l's best work, he did add a second fuel tank and a radiator for the transmission which I will likely keep assuming they prove to still be working. |
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I don't think I would try to use the carb kit. A lot has changed in fuel in the last 20 years and the kit may be older than that. The ethanol fuels today may eat the '90s rubber parts in the kit. Brake pads and oil filter will be just fine. |
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Maybe you can offer an opinion on the oil filter. Currently the filter is the type that slides on and has a bolt to secure it. My f-i-l suggested I think about changing the mount to be able to use a more typical threaded filter. Is there any advantage--availability? installation? effectiveness? |
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You probably should check into finding an adapter if nessasary to switch to the spin on type.. i'm not too sure just how avalable the old type are these days, maybe its not an issue??
https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&...26.MtRQ2DNA8dM . . . . . . . . . . |
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i personally have no problem finding the cartrige type filter,napa will have them if nobody else does.it simply makes more of a mess when changing it VS a spin on style,they both filter the same...
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The main issue with that type of filter is to be sure to remove the old gasket. Lots of people make/made that mistake.
If you buy the adapter for the spin on filter, get a quality one. |
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And thanks for the the gasket advice tcrist. |
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I was reading the 70 Custom Camper/20 (Newbee) thread and want to see if I understood 68350's post about the rear end. If I did understand then what is on my truck (the photo below) is a Dana 60.
Anyone agree or disagree? I tried to salvage the build sheet from under the bench seat and it is in tatters but I do see on one piece "9516QD 3.54 RATIO" but the next word seems to be "CHANGE". Anyone know enough to decode what this is telling me? |
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http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=378042 Nice truck, good luck. |
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yep thats a dana 60,and 3.54 ratio is common..strong and dependable,easy to get parts for.
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Loaded up today, knocked a lot of dried mud out of the fender wells, and gave the beast a good rinse.
Bringing it back across the pass tomorrow to start the process of waking her back up. |
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Looks good, that factory paint should polish up really good
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What a cool story and truck! Good luck and I look forward to updates as you get it up and running.
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That color is growing on me! Hope the trip over the pass was uneventful...
FWIW keep an eye on the parts board for stock replacement mirror arms, but be aware that there was an earlier version that look very similar, but have a slightly different hole pattern. There is also reproduction arms available, i ran across this place tonight for the first time, they only show LH black and stainless so i'm sure the RH is available somewhere. https://www.millsupply.com/auto-body...ickup-mirrors/ |
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Wow. That looks better than I thought. I Love longbeds
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