Metal tank installed
 

This board and its members have been a wealth of information for me, specially Jerry Moss. I finally have something to share, it's not much but i hope this helps someone. I bought a used oversized metal blazer tank ( I was told 37 gallons) and finally decided to do something about it yesterday. Here is a pic of the tank and some steps I took in installing it. Remember I am not a pro and only used the tools I had laying around the house.

I had to remove the spare tire cross bar by grinding off one rivet on each side with an electric grinder. None of the other crossmembers were altered. Did not cut or alter anything you see in this pic. Just what was in front of the crossmember pictured. The tank installs in between the rear cross member and differential.

When I tried fitting the tank yesterday it wouldn't fit so I had to cut a part of the bed support (the bed support in front of the rear crossmember. I was going to hack a chunk off but the rear cross member got in the way of my sawzall, so I decided to cut the front side of the support off and bend the rear part over.

anymore pics?I am thinking of a larger tank like that myself.Where did you get the tank and how far does it hang down?

Cutting the support with a grinder was too much work and with just shorts and a t-shirt on was getting too painfull so I reverted to the sawzall which was much quicker.
Here i am bending the rear side of the bed support forward with 15" adjustable wrench.

Then I took my floor jack and a block of wood to further bend it up. (Don't laugh Jerry)
:D

jack/block

then I moved the block to the edge and jacked some more, always moving the block from one side to the other. Caution, the block wants to slip away on the edge and hit the bottom of the bed floor.

Then I ground the sharp and jagged edges smooth.

Some hammering on the edges to tuck it closer together

Finished bed support. Painted. I'm sure you guys could make this look a lot nicer and maybe weld the bent over piece together. Actually I didn't have to remove as much but It is nice to have more clearance.

Using a block over a jack I carefully jacked up the tank. But first I had to disconnect my right side exhaust hanger. The tank has to be tilted up on the drivers side while jacking up until the inlet tubes clear the top of the frame. Be careful not to squash the small tube on the passenger ("correction",not driver) side. When the inlet tubes clear the top of the frame, rest the inlet on the frame and slide the tank to the left and jack up some more until the right side clears the frame bottom. Jack up until both tabs just touch the bottom of the frame. These are just bottom "stops" and don't rest on top of the frame.

here is a picture of the passenger side nipple you have to be careful of when installing this tank

fuel inlet and vent is not sitting on frame. the vent is about 1/8"
above the frame. The main inlet is about 1/2"over the frame

Front of tank. Top of tank clears bed bottom by about 3" (est)

With the tank strapped up the back of the tank rests snuggly on the bottom of the rear crossmember and lines up square and flush with the back of the rear crossmember, It actually looks factory fit. Not shown in picture the top step of the tank fits snuggly against the front of the rear crossmember. If you look at the picture of the tank on the ground you'll get the picture.

I used 1/2 x 3-1/2 grade 8 bolts and washers for the straps. It was a pain getting the bolts in after jacking the tank up because of the clearance. I recommend you put the bolts in first unless your bed is off. I used the factory holes.

This picture was taken from 10' away. Camera was 5' above ground level. You could barely see the bottom of the tank. Sorry it was getting dark. The truck has a 4" lift. No body lift.

Question: How tight do I tighten the strap bolts.

PS: I don't know when I'll do the gaslines or how yet.

Purpleslammed...I bought it used from a private party who was switching to a much larger tank in the bed for 4 wheeling. He told me this held 37 gallons and the bottom was made of thicker metal. Unfortunately I don't know the brand or where he got it. i only know it fits very nicely under my k10. Next week I'll start working on the fuel lines (maybe). I might install a temporary filler or try different options. My bed is pretty banged up anyway.

a little duct tape, some baling wire and a shot of WD-40 and it's done.:lol:

good job, Luis:flag: :metal:

Nice step by step pic's thank's.

I have the same type of tank, but only a smaller version than the one you have. Mine is designed to fit right behind the stock tank on my burb. I have lined it up, and it seems to be a perfect fit. The main difference mine seems to have is that it attaches to the frame by bolting the 2 side tabs dirrectly to the frame. I think mine is a 16 gallon version.

That tank looks like the one in my 72 Suburban, it holds 40 gallons.

Well with this 37-40 gallon tank, the one behind my seat and two side saddletanks, I should be able to go a long way before a fill-up. :)

Actually when I get this rear tank working properly, I'm going to get rid of the behind the seat tank and the two saddle tanks. I won't be able to afford filling all tanks at todays gas prices.

Could someone tell me what these nipples I arrowed are for. The one on the left (which faces the actual front of the truck) is near the Top of the tank (not bottom, I rechecked) and I beleive goes to the fuel pump. The other two on top I'm not sure what they are for. One points to the rear/left and the other to the right side of the truck.

???

The one's on top should be for (1)vent, (2) return line (if required, if not cap it). Just be sure that the one you use for vent does not extend to the bottom

So it sounds like you decided to use my old buddy

Kid...Vent? Where do you vent it, to atmosphere? Could I leave it open where it is with a screen over it or do I run this to the front charcoal canister? or??? :confused:

CPNEJR...your buddy came in real handy. I might use him elsewhere on my truck :D