Mini starter, heat shield, or remote solenoid?
 

Well, the warmer weather is coming and once again I'm faced with starter-related problems due to heat. I'm determined to fix the problem for good this weekend, and I'd like to hear your opinions/experiences on the best way to do it.

I've heard of three alternatives:

1. Install a heat shield to insulate the starter from the exhaust manifold. Shield deflects heat away from starter/soleniod.

2. Install a mini starter/solenoid. Because it's smaller, it's farther away from the heat source.

3. Install a remote starter solenoid that essentially reroutes the wiring to a Ford-like solenoid mounted away from the engine.

I'd be interested to hear about anyone's opinions and/or experiences on these options (or other methods). Thanks!

I did the remote starter solenoid from Jeg's or Summit and sure was easy and fixed my hot start problem. It was like $22, you can probably do it yourself for a little cheaper, but that was fine for me.

Alot of starting problems can be traced to bad wiring, replace all the wires going to the starter to include battery cables, up size the battery cables also. Don't buy a cheapo starter, they won't last long even on stock or fairly stock engines. Oil leaking onto the wires and starter will also make it worse. Also make sure you have excellent grounds from engine to battery and to frame, that way you ensure proper voltage to starter. I switched to a mini starter, but not because of heat, I needed a better starter to crank my engine with high compression. The remote selenoid is also a great idea, mainly because then the wiring doesn't get heat soaked(that's why I change mine ever few years) the wires can only take so much then the lose the ability to pass full voltage. Good luck.

I also have the remote solenoid and never fails. I dont know how its hooked up, but it works.

I was going thru a starter every six months. Ihave a 402 with stock manifolds. I put on a mini-starter in August of '01 and it's still working fine. Problem solved.

I did the heat shield ($8.00) on a stock starter and it works fine so far. After I get the headers on I might save up for the mini-starter, I've heard (here) that its worth the extra money.

Mini Starter 4 sure

And home made heat sheild from newer car!

:bowtie:

STARTER
 

:flag: :gmc: FOR THE MONEY GO THE REMOTE, JUST MY VOTE :bowtie: :bowtie:

I have never had a problem with my starter...402 with stock manifolds in the scorching hot of texas.
(what happens to me won't happen to the next person though...thats my luck)

I vote "D"!! Since you're there go for it all.That way you've only had to do it once.Maybe a wrap around your headers too.

If you're running headers and fairly high compression motor.I would definately run a mini starter.That should solve all your problems. As long as the wiring is in good shape.

I have the heat shield and it work's really well for me... Just my 2 cent's...

Thanks everyone for your feedback. I think I'll try the remote starter solenoid and see how it goes.

I put the remote solenoid on all my trucks along with the heat shield. Advantages are for one the hot start problem, 2 is the ability to crank the engine over very easily when servicing the truck, 3 all the battery wires and charging wires are not buried behind the engine block and getting burned and oily and 4 being able to change the starter a lot easier [when needed], and not to have to disconnect the battery and losing all the memory in the stereo.:)

I went with the remote solenoid, and it solved my problem. I plan to go with a mini-starter one of these days though.

Guys, im really confussed......I have never had a problem with a starter on these old trucks! IMO, you need a good battery, good set of batt cables, a good starter. I run headers, no heat sheilds, no remote soleniods. Im running a sb that kicks 1 hp per cube, & is almost 10-1 comp ratio......i do not have any hot start issues,& I never have .......not even with a 461" Olds @ 10 to 1! Not an arguement, but just the facts Jack;) crazyL:burnout:

I run the remote solenoid on all my Chevys.
Don't waste your money on the "kits" though.
It's a VERY simple setup.

I'm not very good at explaining things but I'll give it a try.

1. Buy a normal old F@&D solenoid.
(Doesn't really matter if is has 1 or 2 of the small posts unless you're still running a points type distributor.)
And you'll have to buy or make a double eyelet battery cable, but you need to mount the solenoid first so you can get the correct length.

2. Find a suitable mounting spot for the solinoid. (Now get the above mentioned cable)

3. You'll have to run the positive cable from the battery to the solenoid, (one of the big posts, I don't thinkit matter which one), and run the double eyelet ended cable from the other big post on the solenoid down to the starter post.

4. Now you'll have to lengthen the "start" wire, (usually 10-12 gauge purple wire), so it will reach the new solenoid and attach it to the "start" post.
You'll have to lengthen the 12v points lead if you're still running pionts also. You're on your own there. (Mines been gone to long to remember about it). :D

5. Now comes the only "trick" to the whole thing. You'll need to fabricate a small metal strap with one small hole and one big hole to connect the main battery cable post on the starter solenoid, (not the remote solenoid), to the small "Crank" post, (the one where the purple wire used to hook up).
One thing to watch for when you make this strap connector is to make sure it doesn't touch the bottom solenoid post. If it does the starter will engage as soon as you connect the battery! Not good!

I like to use copper to make the connector strap out of and the easiest place I've found to get it is just a normal piece of copper tubing. You can smash it flat or split it open and cut it to shape with a good pair of tin snips. I like the split it open version better myself. looks a little cleaner.

I've been running all my Chevy's with this setup for about 15 years or so and have never had a problem with "hot start" and I've only had maybe 2 solenoid go bad, (the chevy ones on the starter).

Another thing I forgot to mention is, I think, (might be wrong here), that the ford solenoid will have to be grounded to work properly.

WOW, that was a lot of typing for a 2 finger guy!!!LOL!
Good thing it's a SIMPLE setup, Huh?!!;) :D

I don't understand. From this description it sounds like you are adding a remote starter solenoid in series with the starter mounted solenoid. Now you have two solenoids instead of one. How does this help? You still need the chevy starter solenoid to be functional, for contacting the 12V to the motor, and to engage the bendix gear to the flywheel.

If you changed to a different type of starter without a piggyback solenoid that would be another story, but this isn't the case.

It sounds like in your description you jumpered the battery post to the start terminal, this would trigger the solenoid any time the batery post is remotely powered but still routes power through the solenoid's contacter. Wouldn't you want to jump to the motor input, bypassing the solenoid contacts? You would still need to jump to the start terminal also i believe as the solenoid still has to activate to engage the bendix.

You read it correctly Jeepster.
You'll end up with 2 solenoids, (the original Chevy and the remote F@rd one). Seems like extra BS doesn't it! It does work well though.

I can't really remember exactly why it works but it's something to do with "heat soak" and then something about the chevy type solenoid takes alot more amperage to activate than the Ford type.
Instead of the purple wire having to carry the extra amperage to activate the chevy solenoid you have full amperage straight from the battery, (through the remote solenoid and the battery cable), to activate the solenoid.

I also like this setup for the reasons kwmech stated.

Another reason is if you've ever had a positive cable short out against the manifold, (leaves you walking if you're lucky), this cures that too. Even if the cable does somehow come in contact with the manifold, (or headers), there's no "power" there until you hit the start switch.

I did have one rather "different" experience with my setup once though. On my 72 before I went to the newer style bellhousing, (it had the old style that the starter bolted to the bellhousing), I drove to work one morning and just happen to driveby my truck sitting in the plant, (I work road construction), and noticed something hanging under the truck. Closer inspection and I found out it was the starter hanging by the cable! One bolt had come loose and then the other two ears on the starter broke off. I don't know how long I drove with it hanging like that!
On the good side, my truck is a stick so I just unbolted the cable at the remote solenoid, threw the starter in the back, had a friend pushstart me and drove home.

The shorting out point is a good one. I also had a starter fall out of one of my cars once to dangle by the cable.