Cab corner replacement - how to hold 'em down?
 

Before welding 'em in.

I am looking for ideas for holding the cab corners in place so I can tack weld them in. Can't use the visegrip type clamps, especially on the back side, and could only use one of them at the front (in the door jamb, near where the rear of the rocker attaches).

I can hold it in place using 2 or 3 hands and it fits tight.

BTW: I am not using the full patch piece; I cut off the top 4" (just below the body line) partly because it didn't match up with the existing cab indents and partly because the corner was only rotted at the bottom 5".

Anyone use 'clecko-locs' with a backing piece of sheetmetal?

Thanks,
Rick


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Absecon, NJ

1972 Triumph TR6 - full resto finally done!
1975 F**D F-100 - rusty, but reliable
1982 HD XLH-1000
1967 C-10, shortstep, 350/M21 4spd, headers, Flowmasters, Edelbrock, 600 Holley, 3/4 drop - in a million pieces
See some pieces at:
www.freephoto-i.net
username nosto53

In addition to clamps, vise grips, etc. we use self tapping screws, (small 1/4" hex head
3/4" long). The system works well and we weld up the screw holes which gives more
stiffness. Obviously this will not work if you want to butt weld.

Jim

It's a bit odd but I've already held the part in place with my left hand and did a quick tack weld with the right. A few of them will do the job.

I don't even bother with the welding helmet. I just close my eyes for that job. LOL

I've already used masking tape to help hold a part in place until I tacked it but probably wouldn't work well on the cab corner.

They sell magnets to help hold the part too. That might work.

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63 Impala*66 Chevelle SS*69 Chevelle*69 C10 Stepside*71 Cheyenne 20*72 Chevelle

Parts for sale:
http://www.angelfire.com/trek/mr409/items4sale.html

clecos with 2 washers works good(one on the inside, one on the outside)this works good if you are going to butt weld too. There is also a screw type of cleco that you can use more pressure if needed.

I use the magnet method. Works pretty good.

When I did mine I only used part of the patch like you are talking about. I started at the door jam with one small tack weld then lined it up. Then did another tack an inch away. Every time I would do another tack weld I would line up the part that was an inch away while it was still hot. Once you start going around the curve it gets harder, but then you hammer it in place while it is still hot. If you go with this method the prettiest part that requires the least amount of finishing body work will be showing, and the part that requires most[the part you had to hammer]will be hidden by bed.
Unless you are some kind of artist it will require some bodyfiller when you are thru. The main thing is to make a strong repair.

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72 GMC Sierra SWB almost finished---- 84 Softail
Olive Branch MS

Thanks for the ideas! There's sure no lack of good info here.

My magnets weren't able to hold the whole thing in place. The tack, hold, tack, hold sounds like it might work here.

Rick

what is a cleco lock?

I love these magnets...they are cheap ($2.00 on sale) quick and reusable! Just my 0.02! http://community.webshots.com/storag...12464urRwMo_ph

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If it weren't for all the mistakes I made...this would be a part time job!

these are clecos (sorry for the bad pics)

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/4...a9330000004410
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/4...e9950000004410