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using a 77 front suspension in 67-72?????
I am wondering if anyone has used a 77 vintage 1/2 ton crossmember and suspension in a 67-72 truck. Also will the 12 bolt rear end fit.
I have a 77 that I am pulling the big block out of and have not measured but was wondering before I send the rest of the pickup to the scrap yard because they are in good shape, but body is trashed I bought the truck for the motor and trans. I have a future 68 C10 truck I will be building when done with my 71 C10. Can anyone tell me if this will work?, and if so any problems or modifications needed. Appreciate any input. is this a :gi: or bad |
I was also wondering that??
I also have a decent frontend off a 84 that I was thinking of using. Will it bolt in. |
It worked for me. I put a 82 chevy set up on my 68 chevy.
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I believe a 73 thru 87 will fit in our trucks!
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I used the complete front suspension, crossmember etc from a 79 c10 under my 69 GMC. Mine had 6 lug drum brakes and for the rear I used a disc brake rear end from a 79 cadillac fleetwood (had to weld some mounts for my trailing arms). On the front, there on one hole on each side you have to drill out but some just leave that bolt out. You also will have to redo your brake lines as the old ones ran behind the crossmember and the newer ones run in front of it. I just pulled my old ones off and they clipped right on the back side of the 79 crossmember. I had to replace the rubber lines from the disc caliper to steel lines because the newer ones were a little too long. I had to do a couple more line changes and prop valve due to me going with 4 wheel disc. Here is the bolt on the front end. The bolt needing drilled is circled.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...C/9580bbbb.jpg |
I ‘m using everything from an 88 suburban on my 67. I had to redrill 4 bolt holes out of 10 for the cross member to fit. You will need the brake lines and all of the extra bolts for those that are rusted and get lost. I’m still not finished but I’m not hauling off the donor sub until I am. I’ve found that I needed many more parts off of it.
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Curious to what are the major benefits are ?? And do you just put the same number of shims behind the a-arms?? Wouldn't it be easier to just rebuild the old unit??
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This gets those DB spindles under these old trucks without having to do the mix and match thing with the A-arms and ball joints and steering linkages. One big swap makes it easier to find parts in the future because you know that the whole thing is off of a certain year. If you try and piece it together you can have a ton of headaches including a loss of turning radius. Shims: You'll need to get it realigned because the new assembly will have it's own characteristics...the number of shims will be determined at the time of the alignment... |
Disc Brakes are definatly the way to go, lucky I already have them up front. Is there any other benifits ie: better balljoints, spindles etc.???
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Thats great, thanks for all the information, I guess I will take the entire front end out from the 77. My reason is because I wanted to do a disc brake swap under my sons 68 c10 project and I have this 77 C10 with a great frontend, so now I know it will work. :hm:
Now what about the rear end, besides changing the mounting perches does anyone know are they the same width???? |
For $469.95 (plus shipping) you don't have to go through all of that. Just bolt in your choice of either drop or standard height spindles, and all new brakes rotors bearings and ect. Stay 6 lug and not wory about being 6 lug in the rear and 5 in front.
Link to them on our site: http://www.classicheartbeat.com/Accessories.htm WES www.ClassicHeartbeat.com |
By the way the rear ends are a little wider than the 68s. You will also have to change the shock mounts on the rear end. WES
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If you use the later model rear, you can use a Super Track Bar kit from either Early Classics or Classic Performance. This bolts the panhard bar to the passenger side lower shock mount. This is mainly used if you plan on lowering your truck, but you can still use them on a stock ride. You still need to get the trailing arm saddles tho. Those are inexpensive. Same companies have them. You do, of course need to shave all the brackets off the newer rear as well.
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