Freeing up a stuck engine
 

I just bought a older vehicle (1972) Chev. pickup and the V-8 engine is froze up (stuck) and won't budge at all. I pulled all the plugs and put Auto Trans fluid in the cylinders and let it sit for a week. Pulled the radiator and I have a socket on the crank pulley with a persuader bar and a pipe trying to turn engine over, but no luck. Anybody got any more ideas how to get engine to turn over? It's an auto trans and don't really want to try to tow it to turn the engine over.

towing it wont do anything, try marvel mystery oil it has worked for me before. you may have to remove the crank pullys and harmonic balancer off to access the crank snout. they make a special socket that will engage the woodruff key on the crank and then you could safely put rotational force inboth directions to try to break it free

or crank nut,,, this from jegs
or the socket type like the second pic and the linkcrank socket from jegs

Pull the plugs and try diesel fuel down each cylinder, let it sit for a couple days and if it still is stuck dump some down the cylinders again and let it sit for a couple more days and try it again. This worked well for me some time ago on a bike engine, just be sure to get rid of the oil after (lol). Doug

Get yourself one of the crank nuts/sockets as described by Rooster's 67. Pull the plugs and put some Marvel Mystery Oil in each cyl. Work it back and forth with an impact wrench. Ya might break something with the breakerbar. Did the same thing with a 4 cyl. industrial engine. Took a little while. (It won't happen in a second) Once it's free, disassemble and repair as necessary. Hope this helps?

:flag: :gmc: :burnout:

Try brake fluid in the cylinders... seen it free some real nasty engines.
You tried turning it backwards yet?

i've always had good luck with a mixture of marvelmystery oil and wd40// don't use thebolt on the harmonic balencer to try and turn the engine it will snap off leaving you a big problem

Are you sure the bottom end of the engine is okay? It may have a bad rod or main bearing causing it to seize up.

I am worried about snapping that nut off. I will look for that slotted socket that fits over the slot on the crank, so I can try to turn both ways. Old owner says motor was a sweet running engine before brakes went out and sat for about 4 years Anybody got an address on line where I could find that nut.
Thanks DZ

THey said it was at Jegs.

www.jegs.com

http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...26&prmenbr=361

just take offthe crank pulley take a piece of scrap metal(min 1/8thick i like 1/4") drill 3 holes for pulley mount 1 hole right in the center for a minimum 1/2 bolt weld the bolt head to the metal put nut on, bolt to harmonic balancer

Are you in China FOR REAL!! Where did you find a 1972 chevy in China?
Anyways I have had some luck turning the flexplate with a flat prybar if it isn't frozen up too solid. You get a lot of leverage way out there. Don't force it too much if it don't move a little at first. Let the cylinders soak like the other guys said.
I still think you're spoofing us about China/

He is messin around on the China bit... I asked him about that on one of his other posts.

I would mix diesel fuel, PB Nutblaster, Deep Creep, and Marvel Mystery oil all in one, and dut it down the cylinder and maybe a little down the intake. We call diesel the magical fluid, as it will clean or free up about anything. Deep Creep and PB Nutblaster really do work. Prices are a little high for them, but good quality for freeing rusted things. WD-40 is ok, but really doesn't free anything rusted up much.....
Maybe you could take the heads off, take a torch, and try heating up the pistons to cook the rust. Thats what we did on a 1950 JD model...........and we also used a 20 ton jack on the pistons :crazy:

you can pump grease in the cylinders as a last resort , if done correctly it will not harm anything

Guy