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Gas Gauge question
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When I cleaned up my dash gauges, I tryed to put my fuel gauge needle between the 'E' and 'F' but it continues to fall to the left and stop in and around the 8-9 o'clock position....I thought it would move but when I hooked it up and got gas it moved a little, but obviously not within the 'E' and 'F'.....
is it done, or am I missing something?? |
Re: Gas Gauge question
Was it working properly before?
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Re: Gas Gauge question
gulp....Yes....I think...haven't seen it for 2.5 years...been putting her back together that long...but finally it's all back together and it started doing this!!
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Re: Gas Gauge question
ttt....I don't have a pic of it installed, but I had it out this weekend and moved the needle between E and F......as soon as I turned the key to start....the needle pegged to the 9 o'clock position.....is my sending unit shot??
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Re: Gas Gauge question
GC, most likely the sending unit or a ground on the dash panel. Trace that wire from the tank to the fuse box. Insure no cuts and attached to the proper place on the fuse box. There are some T/S ideas in the FAQ section.
If everything looks and appears good pull the sending unit from the tank using your multi-meter check the OHMS moving the lil arm up and down. To get your OHMS at full etc. Pay attn to the condition of the arm and brass float for correct ops. If you need a new sending unit insure you get one with like you have some had smaller lines for a 6 cyl, or 8. to prevent a plumbing headache. Another suspect is that lil resister thing on the gage. Wish I knew where I could get 3 of them known good. Good Luck. |
Re: Gas Gauge question
When you get it fixed please let us know what the problem is. I went through the same thing a couple of years ago. I checked the wiring and it was fine. I replaced the fuel sending unit with a new one and no luck. I replaced the fuel gauge twice with new ones and still no luck. The voltage and the ground wire were both good and it had the little resistor on the gauge. I gave up and bought an Autometer gas gauge and it worked just fine. :uhmk:
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Re: Gas Gauge question
GC, chased the same thing on my truck. Did all the troubleshooting that others have suggested above. I was sure it was the in-tank sending unit. Wrong! Now I've got an extra one. Read here in a thread about the resistor on the back of the gauge. I had nothing to lose by purchasing one at that point. Even the link was there. It was Fix-A-Gauge repair. It took awhile to receive it, with no correspondense after a follow-up email. I finally got it and it was nothing more than a small resistor with a spade terminal on both ends. I put it on the back of the gauge terminals where they stick through the white porcelain, and I'll be derned! It worked!
I kept the link, but it doesn't work now. I do see that the Car and Truck shop lists a fuel gauge resistor. It might work for you. Good luck with it. |
Re: Gas Gauge question
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Did you remove the needle from the center post? LockDoc |
Re: Gas Gauge question
Quote:
LockDoc....I did remove the needle when I installed the white background.....did I screw something up there??? |
Re: Gas Gauge question
I agree w/sammy,check sending unit w/dvom should be a 0-90 ohm sending unit,or you may have accidently wired it wrong,poss lighting wire or groung config.sry didnt see the removed needle thing,sending units rarely fail so if you removed the needle your problem may be there.the guage is powered by BATT + and the ground is fed through the sending unit resistor,near 0 ohms at one end and near 90 ohms at the other.make sure to "sweep test" unit by slowly moving from one end to the other and watch meter for glitches or opens.
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Re: Gas Gauge question
another thought,I cant tell you how many times ive found ground strap problems on restored vehicals,seems like every place that got painted didnt get properly grounded afterwords,double check fuel tank ground strap at the frame by checking resistance from tank end to another know good ground
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