Engine Wire Loom Routing
 

I am just starting the wire harness install. I got the Painless set up and looks good so far. My question is based on the experience of people that had done this before, What is the best way to route the engine section, front section, ect. I will like a clean install and not have wire looms laying around the engine bay. Any pics and cable routing ideas, tips and tricks before I start? Here is a pic of my engine bay at this point. Thanks in advance for the help.

Re: Engine Wire Loom Routing
 

Engine bay looks great. I,m in the process of rewiring also

Re: Engine Wire Loom Routing
 

The stock wiring uses those silly plastic wire tunnels along the rear of the cowl and over the Rad from the driver to passenger side. When I rewired my truck I ran the wires for the passenger side lights and starter over the trans, down the frame alonside the trans cooler lines and up to the power post and right side turn signal and headlight connections. On the drivers side I separated out the alternator connection, sleeved it in stainless braid and ran it along the carb side of the valve cover on that side. Water temp sender on my block is on the passenger side as is the electric choke so I wrapped those in stainless braid and ran them along the carb side of valve cover on the passenger side. The remainder of the lighting harness and horn wiring was fed between the fender above the inner liner so it is completely hidden.
Very clean, most of the wiring is now completely hidden and where it is visible it is wrapped in stainless braid and clamped with stainless clamps so it can't flop around. The more time you spend here the better your engine bay will look.

Re: Engine Wire Loom Routing
 

I also run a Painless harness. I ran the engine bay wires back into the cab, over the top of the trans tunnel, down the pass side of the floor, then drilled a hole and ran them through the floor, and tucked and routed them inside the framerail. I had to lengthen several of them. Hiding the wires for the clean look is a PITA, and seems to take about 3 times as long, but I think it's worth it. I also hid all my MSD wires, and run the plug wires under the headers.The guages on top of the motor were temporary, and the aluminum box with the Bowtie is something I made to hide the outside of the fuseblock. Here's a few pics: