HEI won't go in
 

it has about a 1/2 inch gap between the intake manifold and the flange that suppose to seat it self? any thoughts? thanks

Crank the engine over a little. There is a slot on the oil pump drive shaft that has to line up with the tab on the distributor shaft. Just turn it over and it'll drop down.

or try using a long screw driver to turn the shaft

do you have a chevy HEI? I have one that is about .75 longer than normal. I think it is a olds or pontiac. It would have the gap you describe if installed on chevy. Measure your HEI from intake flange to lower end of unit. If it is chevy, then your oil pump drive shaft needs clocked to allow the tang on bottom of HEI to engage. (this misalignment should only hold HEI out about 1/4")

GOT IT thanks to AIM and Slammed67 help. thanks every one else for helping out too.

Got a question, I have in the past just tried to align the oil pump then reinstall the dist. Lets say you have the dist aligned in the correct position, you are saying that you can just turn the motor let say by the fly wheel or engine starter and get it to drop down will that throw off the timing, maybe not as long as the dist gear is ingaged and turns. Is that what you are saying. Ed ke6bnl

Ed, you are right in that it would throw off the timing if you cranked over the engine to get the distributor to drop. You have to do like you said, only turn the oil pump to get it aligned. As trailwart said, a long screwdriver will work, and a long scraper screwdriver will work better, with the wide blade. Also you can use an old distributor shaft, as it marries up well.

If you just pulled the distributor without worrying about #1 on top dead center, then the distributor has to go in the exact same way it came out, with the engine at the exact same place. That's why you can't crank the engine.

If you're building an engine, or for some other reason are starting at #1 cylinder at TDC, then the distributor must be aligned for TDC. Again, you can't crank the engine or you'll lose TDC.

Only way to do it is to turn the free-spinning oil pump tang at the bottom of the distributor pit until it lines up with the angle on the distributor slot. Then ease the distributor in. You can wiggle the distributor a little once it's close, but not enough to throw it off by a full cylinder.

I've always turned it over to get the distributor to drop in. I never can seem to get it in right the first time anyway, always one tooth off. Regarless, how is turning it by hand better than hitting the starter for a second? The distributor is on the gear part way (at least mine is), so you are just turning it to line it up with the oil pump, right? Also, isn't the timing always off after you pull the distributor? I can never get mine in exactly the way it was before and I always have to time it when I'm done. I'm just curious to know a little more about this.

Thing about getting the distributor to drop when you do the install is to keep in mind you are not taking a straight shot at it. Since the gears are at an angle, you have to think about the approach. It is best to get the oil pump lined up using a old distributor shaft or screw driver based on where it looks like the distributor will line up.

I've found that a point of reference on the valve cover somewhere is about the best way to START with the distributor install. This will give you (again with the angle) a target to shoot for with the install. I doubt very seriously if it is possible to hit perfect timing with an install, at least not consistently. Marking the distributor shaft body and intake manifold might prove me wrong though. Thing is, my marks usually don't stay or I'm replacing the intake, distributor or some other referencable part when I pull the distributor.

One more thing, It seems to me that I have to go one more tooth with an HEI than I did with the points distributor to get it to timing right. Short of really twisting it up, I pull the distributor and move it one tooth. This also helps keep the wires going to more or less the correct spot shown in shop manuals.

Maybe Pontiac, olds is much shorter than chevy since it doesn't go through the intake manifold. Makes it nice on a olds you don't have to pull the disributor to remove the intake or heads, if you ever had to work on an olds that is :) they run forever.

When you turn the oil pump tang by hand, you are not moving the engine and you are not changing the position of the cylinders. When you bump the engine, you are changing the position of the cylinders. The distributor and cylinders have to be exactly aligned to run right. One tooth off and you get backfiring and really poor running.

If the dist teeth are started into the cam gear, you can hold a little pressure on the dist & have somebody bump the starter.....assuming that the dist is stared in in the proper spot(slightly CC of where it will end up bolted down)......the dist will drop into the oilpump shaft, & will not affect the timing. If you turn the eng with the dist out.....thats another story! crazyL:burnout:

Did you have the engine apart? Iknow it is unlikely but it happend to me last year. I put in a big block pump driveshaft that I had on the workbench when I put my 307 together. Probably not your issue but it is possible.

I WAS WAITING FOR SOMEONE TO SAY THAT. I'VE ALWAYS DONE IT THAT WAY. WORKS LIKE A CHAMP.

I don't even hold presure on it 'cause I'm usually by myself and have to hit the starter. If I ever pull my distributor and get it in right the first time I will be the happiest man alive, at least for a couple minutes.