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C30 Noob
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Hi, new to the site but not car forums. I am getting my grandpa's 1970? C30 Dually this new years. He was using it to haul hay and has since upgraded to an F-Super Duty and doesn't need it anymore.
It currently has drum brakes, a 350, and 4 speed manual. He had the original 3 speed swapped out. Before I drive it up to PA from Louisiana I wanted to do a disc brake swap on the front end. Since right now the brakes don't work that well. I've done some research and it doesn't have power brakes or steering either. So I was thinking of what all I needed for a swap besides the obvious rotors, calipers, and spindles. When I upgrade I will need a brake booster and all the accessories inbetween correct? If I put Mid 80's rotors, calipers, and spindles on the 70 upper and lowers I just need to change out the ball joints to the appropriate ones correct? Oh am I correct that this is a 70? That is the only picture I have for right now. Thanks and great site! |
Re: C30 Noob
I wish I could answer your tech questions, but I have not yet delved into the brake swap over yet. Welcome to the board! That is definitely and old work horse. I can say if you are driving it from LA to PA your are going to be worn out! Someone will probably help with your questions. In the meantime, check under the FAQ and truck tech sections of this site. Many before us have changed brakes, gas tanks, etc. and have good posts on the common swaps. Look right at the top of this section for drum to disk conversion... maybe this will help also.
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Hey ThumperWS6 ...
:hi: from Ohio and :cong: on you :c2: rig. I am mechanically changed so here is a bump. |
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Bert, I have been reading through the C-10 swaps and it seems pretty straight forward with the mechanical aspect of the brakes themselves. Just worried about adding disc brakes onto a truck that came with drum manual brakes. Otherwise I will just put new shoes on it and drive it up that way. But 1200 miles on drum breaks might give me a heart attack or annuerism.
70CST- Thanks for the bump. I have a lot of knowledge in my head about how things are suppose to work, but sometimes in application I hit brick walls on making it work. |
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Welcome from Southeast Missouri.
It looks to be a 69 or 70, it is hard to tell from the photo which one. I have never converted a C-30 to disc brakes, we just did a conversion on my '67 C-10 by using the whole front cradle from a '71. Drum brakes work pretty good when in good shape and if you install a power booster they will stop real well. If you are going to drive any distance you might want to put a pillow or such in the seat to cushion the ride some, C-30's ride pretty rough. |
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It will be a long ride back for sure, but somewhat a nostalgic road trip. I think it is a 69 or 70 also based on feedback. I can't remember which my grandpa told me and I wont know until the title is in my hand when I fly in to pick it up. I found a member name rushnnobo on here that has a 69 C30 was hoping he would comment as his Dually SWB is NICE!. My Trans Am is Arctic White with Dark Shadow Gray Metallic stripes so I was thinking about doing a reverse paint scheme. But after seeing his white C30 it makes me second guess myself. My goal is to put a 454 or 8.1 in it with a 6 speed out of a newer 1 ton truck. I have a 7.4L (454) out of a 97 2500 Suburban but that was gonna go into my Tahoe. |
Re: C30 Noob
[QUOTE=ThumperWS6;5037039]Before I drive it up to PA from Louisiana I wanted to do a disc brake swap on the front end. QUOTE]
Great truck!!!! We love the C30 here at Rottenwood Garage!!! I would not worry about the brakes right now....just get them working. You are going to need all the money you can get your hands on for fuel to get it home unless you are going to trailer it. I doubt it will get better that 5mpg on the highwway. |
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I have a 67 C30 and I bought a 75 C30 and swapped the whole hydroboost disc system to the 67. I really like the hydroboost, and if you are going to use the C30 as a one-ton truck is meant to be used I would really consider that swap. I had a mechanic friend help me, actually he goes by 68c15 on this board, and without him I would have had a couple problems. The biggest thing is that you have to lengthen the rod that the brake pedal pushes.
As far as right now goes I would get it working and drive or trailer it home. Those drum brakes were sufficient for a long time, they will still work fine. Your braking distance will be more than the people in front of you so make sure you leave a good distance between you and whoever happens to be in front of you. |
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probably a 4.56 or 5.13 rear gear.
if running right I would guestimate 8 to 10 MPG I would not recomend a full up brake conversion and then hitting the road for 1200 miles. That's too long of a shake down run for me. You would not NEED to convert to power brakes to convert to disk, but it is a nice thing to have. If the grill is correct, it is a 69 or 70, with a 71 or 72 bumper. It may have the original tranny and grandpa is confusing it with another old truck being that the 3 speed manual was not offered in C/30 trucks. |
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Mine got 2 mpg with a 327-granny 4-and 513. When I changed to to a 410 rear I got 4mpg. That was highway at 55mph average
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Here's a pic that might help ya figure out what ya got in it? Hope this helps.
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68c15 knows a lot about any vehicle I ask him about and I know he knows about hydro brakes also cuz we've talked about it. Do you have the vin an the spec sheet on the cubby door? O an welcome :)
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Re: C30 Noob
Welcome from Central Florida!
If your going to make a 1200 mile suicide run in that unit just rebuild the brakes that are on it, don't change the front bumper and make a list of all the forum members between Louisiana and PA and have a good cell phone handy. You can do it but your going to need some help...and you will have one helluva story to tell your grandkids. Good luck Thumper ...and these folks WILL help you. |
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I've done some math here and I think you can pull this off. If you got 10 mpg you'll need about $600 for fuel plus food etc. You could drive 8-10 hours a day and hit every other rest area to check your tires, belts, hoses and all, 4 days ought to be about right. If you planned it right you could keep us posted on your progress and probably have predetermined points where members could help you out if you need it. And I'm tellin ya if you planned it right they would be there waiting on you. I've delt with enough people on here to know they would love to be part of this story. I am a little too far south to be of any use but I could help coordinate for you.
I would also bet you could get some members close to the truck help you get it on the road to start with. Back when I was young and crazy enough to do this they didn't have the internet but we still did stuff like this...and we survived...most of us anyway. I say DO IT! :uhmk: You could also cover some of your expenses hauling parts from the south to the north for the members you get signed up... |
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I would definately not worry about the disc conversion at this point, rebuild the stock drums (don't forget the wheel cylinders) and if adjusted correctly you will stop just fine. The power brake conversion might make things a little nicer though. If I lived in-route I would be happy to help if needed.
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$25 brake cylinders ... Some of the one to s of this era are considerably more... Assuming you can find them.
MY OPINION... If the cylinders dont leak, then dont mess with them If the shoes and drums are thick enough... Leave them alone. If pushing the pedal makes the truck slow down, then just tripple check for leaks and adjust the shoes up so it stups straight. Repack the front bearings if it has sat for a while Check the lube in the rear Give it a tune up and an oil change, strap a small tote box on the bed, air up the tires and keep the radio off the first 1000 miles or so. Thats more than i did when i got my burb from the seattle area and drove it here. Posted via Mobile Device |
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I find on my 69 that the brake bias is a bit heavy to the rear. When not loaded the back likes likes to lock first in less than ideal traction. Be careful! With the in cab tank on my half ton I've found myself sweating between available gas stations. With a fuel hog like a low geared dually I'd be packing a few spare 5 gallon gas cans full of extra go juice. All things considered the cost to ship it may not be much different and the hassle factor could be significantly reduced.
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Thanks so much for the help everyone. I love the idea of stopping through and letting folks see it. But i think so far the most economical is for me to haul it on my trailer back up to PA.
What does a SWB C30 Dually weight? |
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Personally I would trailer it but that's because Murphy seems to stick his nose in every project like this I have, I also have a 3/4 ton suburban to tow with not a tahoe that may weigh half as much as the load once on a trailer. A nostalgic road trip would be cool though if I had the gas $$$ and time.
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