Replacing rusty panel
 

Whats the best method for removing rusty body parts ie inner kick panel floor board outer and inner cowel panels? Do you go from inside to outside or the reverse? I have rust at the bottom of the cowel on the drivers side and want to replace it while i'm doing the floor, toe board and inner kick. Thanks, oh it s on a 52 3100

Joe

Re: Replacing rusty panel
 

This was on a '51 suburban and i started with the floors and then went to the outside. Take it one step at a time and try not to cut to much out at once as it'll help keep everything in line better. This just a few of the pictures i have of the rust repair so if you want to see more PM me and i'll send you some..

Re: Replacing rusty panel
 

I did pretty much the same thing as Parkwood did. The floor from the seat riser back was good on mine so I made a frame out of 1" square tubing and 12 gauge. I made the frame in case I left the floor flat {no thansmission hump to brace it against vibration.} Indesision is the key to flexability:lol:



I will look for pictuers. I need to add them to my build thread anyway:lol:

Re: Replacing rusty panel
 

jremig, I always brace the door jams in a x and also x brace under the dash just so I know nothing moves. I do the floor and rockers first. I always build a 1 x 1 box tube frame for the floor rather than the factory way. Then take out one panel at a time. Then do the outer cowl, then the fender bolt channel piece, then the inner cowl and the toe boards last.

Shannon

Re: Replacing rusty panel
 

I know some guys probably figure I get a commission off the sales of the "assembly manuals" for these trucks but they are great reference as to how the cabs went together and where the spot welds are. Your course of action might have a lot to do with what will hold the cab together and get it square and go from there.