10 bolt rebuild questions
 

So I have my 10 bolt mostly torn apart, and I have some questions. First off, it had a snapped driver's side axle when I bought it (shame on me for assuming) which is why I'm tearing it down. Should I replace both inner and outer axle shafts, or just the broken inner and put a new U Joint in? Also, should I replace the inner seals? I have not torn the r&p out yet, and honestly I'm a little scared to. Should I replace the U Joint on the passenger side. Last one...has anyone had experience with Rugged Ridge locking hubs?


Sorry for the long-winded questions, I'm just curious how deep I should take this rebuild. I am already planning on replacing the ball joints which is another reason I tore it down as far as I did.

Re: 10 bolt rebuild questions
 

when you slide the axle shafts in you might nick the inner axle seals and cause a leak anyways. its only four more bolts. you dont have to re set gears or anything. remove and replace.
and if you only do one ujoint the other one is gonna laugh at you two weeks later and youll have to change it anyways.
just replace the broken axle shaft. theyre not much to go wrong with those. if they ujoint caps spins in the yoke ear, its bad too. should not be re used.

Re: 10 bolt rebuild questions
 

Ok, that makes sense. So since it makes sense to pull the diff out to replace the inner seals, it probably makes sense to replace the pinion seal as well right? Does that require anything special other than replacing the crush washer (and setting the drag or whatever it's called)?

Re: 10 bolt rebuild questions
 

If the pinion seal aint leaking its fine. The pinion assembly requires a crush washer. This is not a remove yoke and seal and replace kind of deal. The crush washer sets pinion bearing preaload and if youre not comfortable setting up gears then id leave it alone. Youre looking for like 18 inch pounds of rotational torque on the pinion.
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Re: 10 bolt rebuild questions
 

Ok, so pull the diff out and I'm ok. Remove the pinion and I'm screwed. Got it :lol:

Thank you for your help on this obijuan!

Re: 10 bolt rebuild questions
 

In a nutshell yes. While youre in there, take a rag on a broomstick or something and scrape out the inner axle tubes.
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Re: 10 bolt rebuild questions
 

Also there are left and right bearing caps. And up and down. Mark them with a punch to identify orientation. Also races need to go back on the same side.
They may even be marked already.
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Re: 10 bolt rebuild questions
 

Thank you for all your insight on this obijuan!! I may even have the balls to attempt this over the weekend :lol:

Re: 10 bolt rebuild questions
 

Show me in the service manual where it says this ;)

Hundred, or perhaps thousands, of pinion seals are replaced every day without a rear axle overhaul.

The trick is putting the pinion nut back where it came off. :uhmk:

Re: 10 bolt rebuild questions
 

Show me where it says count the threads. Thats not the right way to do it. The op comfort level doesnt seem up to where he wants to chance ruining a crush sleeve. Millions also dont have crush sleeves. If it were a dana 44 id say r&r hammer that pinion nut on.
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Re: 10 bolt rebuild questions
 

A dana 44 has a 10 bolt cover and I think that is what the OP is working on.

So no crush sleeve to worry about.

PS, I don't count threads :)

Re: 10 bolt rebuild questions
 

well judging by him saying ten bolt and his build thread has pictures of a ten bolt, its gotta be a dana 44. i guess i just assumed.


http://www.omghub.com/Portals/238/im...n-derail-3.jpg

Re: 10 bolt rebuild questions
 

I didn't read his build. Doesn't matter anyway.

I did pull out my service manual. You should read it sometime. :waah:

Re: 10 bolt rebuild questions
 

Hey be nice you two :-) it is actually a 10 bolt that I purchased to replace my closed knuckle 44 so that I could get disks on the front. Obijuan is right, I'm not overly excited about having to deal with the preload, but then again I can do anything with the right tools and knowledge from the board :lol:

Re: 10 bolt rebuild questions
 

hey mrjensen I don't know about those rugged ridge locking hubs, but my I got my Mile Marker premium hubs from Amazon for like $75 shipped. Mine are PN 104, but you need to double-check the fitment on yours because I think you have an 8-lug front end.

Re: 10 bolt rebuild questions
 

Ok, I'll check that route! Thanks!

Re: 10 bolt rebuild questions
 

I am always the one to caution people about messing with things that affect the set-up of the gears....but I'm with Bigdav160 on this one.
You can change a pinion seal w/o hurting anything.
First of all, the "rotating torque"spec is for "when new", meaning freshly installed. You can actually change the contact pattern by tightening your "used" bearings to that point.
The nice thing about this is that it takes an incredible amount of force to crush the sleeve, more than you would apply when reinstalling the yoke.
I would use a new nut and torque it to 100-125 ftlbs and call it good.

Of course use some common sense here. You are doing this "by hand", so stop if anything "feels different".

Re: 10 bolt rebuild questions
 

All ten bolt lockouts will swap with internal style dana 44. Theyre 19 splines. I prefer the spicer style hubs myself. Warn premuims are excellent though.

the external style was 8 lug dana 44s from way back. They bolt on with six 1/2" bolts or so.

The internal style is the same lockout from waggoneer, and f150's, 250's l, k5, k10, k20, broncos, dodge dana 44s too.

https://www.independent4x.com/mercha...rnPremHubs.jpg
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Re: 10 bolt rebuild questions
 

X2 on this. I feel this would work just fine. Especially on a front diff that doesn't see continuous use anyway. Think of how many miles most normal people drive in 4wd with the hubs locked in compared to the total miles the rear diff gets. When i worked at a mechanics shop I saw mechanics do it and it on a rear diff and it worked just fine. Front diff should be fine.