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Late doors on early cab?
AD trucks: Can you use the later doors with the pushbutton handle on an earlier cab with the turndown handle? I assume a striker change is required. Anything other modifications?
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Re: Late doors on early cab?
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Brian |
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Aren't there some conversion strikers, or do those only work the other way around - early doors to late cab? |
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I think there may be strikers that work for you, can't believe someone else hasn't posted here, there is someone here with the answers.
Brian |
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I remember that my grandfather and I put a push button drivers door on his 48 1 ton after he rolled it in the early 60's and that was what he came back from the wrecking yard with. We did have to go back and get the striker off the donor truck.
I it were me I'd get my hands on a 52/53 striker be it new or worn out and see how it fastens up to the cab and go from there. Somewhere on my Mr 48 Chev photobucket page there are photos showing the early door posts and later door posts but I'd have to hunt to find them. I don't have a push button door on the place among the dozen or so doors that I have to compare doors. |
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The PO of my truck said he changed the doors because he hated that the pulldown handles were always droopy (valid point). Apparently he never got around to changing the strikers however. I did attempt to close the door with the current latch/striker combo. It closed and latched TOO securely - door stuck pretty tight, had to really bang it back open. I'll order some '52 strikers and see if they work. |
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That's my photo, I know the difference in the strikers but what about where they bolt to the cab. As I remember that area is quite different.
Brian |
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not sure if this helps but here's some pics of mine (pushbutton).....
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Okay, here is the definitive answer (or at least ONE answer) to my own question, can you use late AD push button style doors (52-54) on an early cab originally equipped with turn down handles (47-51)? Answer: NO.
Not without modification, that is. The respective latches and strikers are not compatible. I didn't want to hack up the door jambs on my pristine cab, so I chose to modify the strikers instead - after all, they're easily replaceable. I ended up with hybrid striker using the center section from a late cab joined to the mounting tabs of an early cab. Seems to work great - door closes and latches fully. Pic 1: Early striker, late striker, hybrid striker tacked together for trial fit Pic 2: Late striker, hybrid striker for comparison. Note the difference in depth. Pic 2: Finished hybrid striker ready for installation |
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thanks for figuring this out. in the time before you posted your question I had always been told the answer was no, but without any personal experience on the subject was hesitant to check in. then a week before your question I went to a swap meet and a guy had a set of 52 doors, my 49 is missing the drivers door. the price was right for the pair and he told me to just change the striker even through my objection.
you can imagine the incredible restraint needed not to clutter up your thread with all this information before someone had done it. now all I need is a time machine to go back and buy the doors haha. |
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Love it when folks figure the unthink or undoable...nice work, Kel |
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Hell yeah that looks good!
Brian |
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To do it right you need to cut the striker mounting are out of 47-51 cab and replace the area of a 51-54 cab. Kind of a job but does look much cleaner .
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1) As I said in my post, my cab is pristine and I didn't want to hack it up. 2) If necessary, I can easily change doors back just by changing strikers. 3) I bought strikers for $24. However you source door jamb patches (parts cab?) would cost much more than that. 4) Striker plate modification is FAR simpler than door jamb reconstruction. 5) As far as "cleanliness" goes, when I'm done painting and detailing my door jambs, I challenge anyone to tell that they're not factory. Heck, I may even get them chromed! BTW, this trial fit below proved that they close and latch like OEM - hooray! |
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Brian:metal: |
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Did the passenger side today; it worked equally well. Door clicks and latches effortlessly. I painted this striker silver, I think it looks better, plus it doesn't show the latch scratches, so I'll probably re-paint the drivers side to match. Eventually the door jambs will be black so it will be a nice contrast.
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looks factory.....good job on those. ....
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That is great work. Well thought out. Of course we'll all be copying your work. Thanks for posting it.
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The other way to do this is use Altman latches, although if you want stock this is clearly not. Altman(Trique) will work with you to mix and match the parts so it’s just about bolt-in other than the obvious mods to the doors to fit the latches. I am using ‘49 doors on a ‘51 with pushbutton handles and keyed locks on both doors.
Your solution does look slick though! Nice work. |
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for future reference... always do the passenger side first: learn the ins and outs and redo's
then do the drivers door perfectly on the first try :D i did everything to my drivers side first: door loom, power window and door panel drivers door loom squeaks when opened, pass side is flawless drivers power window hangs up if you slam it when down, pass side is flawless drivers door panel vinyl is wrinkled, pass side is flawless see the pattern here? :D 99% of the time i'm by myself, nobody using the pass door |
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