lowering blocks
 

I am upgrading my 68 panel to disc brakes. The new spindles have a 2" drop. I have been looking at the 2" lowering block for the rear trailing arms instead of lowering springs. Anyone have experience with the blocks or should I steer clear of them and use springs? I dont want it real low but I don't want a bad rake either

TIA
Richard

Re: lowering blocks
 

I have had 2" blocks on my Blazer for over 100,000 miles with no issues. Blocks get you lower without loss of suspension travel which makes for a better ride. The only down side I know of is reduced ground clearance under the trailing arm or spring. Which for almost every pavement driven vehicle it is not an issue with 2 inch blocks. That being said 2" blocks and 35 series tires on 15" wheels might not be a good idea. But some measuring before hand should reveal any ground clearance problems.
Usually you have to replace the u-bolts that bolt the axle to the suspension. Just be sure to go with quality fasteners and you won't have problems. It is a good idea to check the nuts with a torque wrench periodically. Although I have never found a loose one it makes me feel better.
Hope this helps Richard. Thanks again for the window seal!! :metal:

Re: lowering blocks
 

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I used 2" square tubing and made my own blocks on my White '67. It worked good.

LockDoc

Re: lowering blocks
 

thanks guys. These are the ones I was looking at. They are billet and come with the u bolts for less than $90

.

Re: lowering blocks
 

I agree with all the above. I might add that you can probably make your own for less than $50 bucks and an hour of your time. A good spring shop should be able to bend up some quality U-bolts for $40 or less. A 2' long chunk of 2" tubing will be more than enough for a couple of blocks. Cut to length, drill 4 holes, a coat of paint and you are done.