Amp guage pegs
 

My amp guage has never worked....I have read on this board several times that there are two little fuses that are usally the culprit. Changed them last weekend and low and behold the gauge works. I have changed over to a bigger one wire internaly regulated alternator. At idle it reads just a hair to the right of center, right where I would expect, but as soon as the rpm's come up a little it pegs out. Anyone else have this problem?

Sounds like your alternator is overcharging your system. Does you battery smeel bad after driving it for a while. Be careful, an overcharged battery will EXPLODE--ask my grandma!

Does it return to center after driving a short while? May be the the alternator is ouputting more than the gauges range. But as the battery voltage returns to near normal after cranking, the needle should return to center unless you have some extremely large power drain somewhere.

Or something in the wiring causes the gauge to no longer read correctly. I had posted several years ago about the amp gauge and whether it still functioned after bypassing the external regulator or if further changes had to be made. Don't remember ever getting an unequivocal answer to this.

Where are the fuses for the amp gauge again??

Heres a diagram. One is located close to voltage reg on rad. support and the other by batt on pass side .
MIKE C My ammeter works with internal reg alt with no probs John

How did you do your int reg John? Did you jumper the external regulator plug? Or just bypass it completely?

Factory amp gauge will NOT work with a one wire alt.It will hover just past midline but it is not working.

I had a one wire and thought my amp gauge was working untill I went back to the 3 wire factory alt.

Now my amp gauge give me accurate readings.

It has to do with the 2 black wire(the one's with the 4amp fuses).One wire take a reading from the alt and one from the battery.The differance in those two readings will give you either a charge or discharge reading ot the amp gauge.

With a one wire alt the only reading your getting is the one at the battery.

Alright Bobby, how did you wire it up? I'll do a one wire in the Jimmy because the ammeter is gone and I have an autometer volt meter, but in my truck I want to have the OEM ammeter working.

Mike,just wire it up like the schematic above.

If you have the factory wiring just make sure the two 4 amp fuses are good and things should work.

If the fuses are good but it doesn't work check the connections at the back of the gauge.

Also check the back of the inst. cluster.Sometimes the plastic circuit board on the back can get fried(if a short takes place) and will knock out the amp gauge circuit.

If you don't have the factory wireing and REALLY want that amp gauage working run a fused 18g wire from the battery to one side of the amp gauge then another fused 18g wire to other side of the amp gauge coming from a chargeing source.

The factory makes that connection in the wire harness.This connection actually connects the battery charge wire,the out from the alt.,the "voltage sense" wire and one side of the amp gauge.All crimped and soldered in the wire harness.Find that spot in the harness and attach that wire there.