Quote:
Originally Posted by Longhorn Man
there is no need to replace the master cylinder. It is the same part number manual or power.
So there is no need to break open the lines, nor bleeding.
Remove the master from the booster, support it with a bunge cord or something, remove the booster, remove the pushrod from the pedal.
Instal the new pushrod to the other hole on the brake pedal arm, and botl the master to the firewall being careful not to kink the lines.
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That's exactly what found out. We left it unopen and the brake lines held it firmly in place being careful not to bend them too much.
Welded an extension to lengthen the rod and worked like a champ. They worked so well, he's thinking of staying with the manual brakes.
Mine are all drum and I also converted to power brakes. I'm thinking of going back to manual if I don't convert to disk brakes. These tend to lock up too easy when I have to stop all of a sudden.