Quote:
Originally Posted by dccarpenter
In my ongoing compulsive car acquisition spree I'm thinking of adding another truck to my barely functional current 3. I've endured much scorn from my girlfriend, friends, relatives, and others regarding my vehicles and their roadworthiness or lack thereof.
Let's say the cost of parts was not a question(and an engine swap was prohibitive due to time, location, etc..) what would you do to make a new 'old' truck to the family as reliable as possible?
My goal is essentially to make the new truck as reliable as possibly can be, granted things occasionally break on their own but the goal being to minimize the chances of problems. The cost in missed days of work and storage/tows on these things is what kills me more than buying the parts..the parts tend to be quite cheap.
I'm thinking if I perform all of the following tasks then with a stout enough engine I should be good to go, granted I may be tossing some good parts out unnecessarily I figure the peace of mind factor may make up for it. Any additional items to add? My goal is to get 2 years of 10K mile/year use without anything but fluid change type maintenance, that should keep my girlfriend off my back about the old trucks, so I can then buy more and frustrate her again.
Replace
* Oil and filter
* Spark plugs and wires
* Distributor changed to HEI
* Ignition Coil
* Rear end fluid
* Alternator/Starter
* Tires
* Brake shoes, wheel cylinders, drums turned
* Master cylinder
* Shocks
* Leaf springs re-arched
* Belts/Hoses
* Radiator flush/fill
* PCV valve, fuel filter
* Body mounts, motor mounts, transmission mount
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Oil and filter yes. Then do it every 3000 - 5000 miles depending on your driving style.
Spark plugs and wires yes. Gap your new plugs to .045 (.030 until you do HEI).
HEI. Yes.
Ignition coil. NO. It is part of your HEI upgrade. The coil is on top of your new distributor.
Rear end grease. Yes. Probably first time in a long time if ever. If you have posi make sure to add the posi additive.
Leave the starter and alternator alone. MOST of the Checkers Store rebuilds are crap. Changing out to one of them may LOWER your perceived reliability factor.
Tires. Check them for wear. Replace if/when necessary.
Brakes. Inspect the shoes on the rear and pads or shoes on the front depending on if you have disk brakes or drums. If you have drums, putting on a power disk brake setup will help lots with how others perceive your truck. In other words when your girlfriend is texting her way through DC traffic in your truck, looks up and needs to get on the binders, disk brakes will bring her to a stop a whole lot faster than the drums.
Also, flush your brake fluid. Yes I said flush your brake fluid. There is a good chance it is 40 years old. Use a turkey baster or similar tool to suck old fluid out of the master cylinder - being careful not to suck it below the ports in there. Throw that old stuff away. Fill with new. Then run around to each wheel and bleed the brakes until clear fluid comes out.
Master cylinder - again only replace if you notice symptoms of it not working properly.
Shocks - inspect. Replace if necessary.
Springs - inspect. Replace if necessary.
Belts and hoses. Replace them all. Toss the old ones in a box along with a gallon or two of mixed 50/50 anti-freeze. Box goes in bed for long trips.
Radiator - yes. Flush. The proper way to fill it after a flush is to fill with 1/2 the quantity stated in the owners manual of UNMIXED anti-freeze. Then with the cap off the radiator, fill the rest of the way with straight WATER. Start the truck - cap still off the radiator. After the truck is up to operating temperature - coolant constantly flowing through the radiator, fill to the top with straight WATER. Put on the cap. And you're done. Now you've burped the system and you know the mix is exactly 50/50.
PCV valve. Inspect. Replace if necessary.
Fuel filter. If it makes you feel better replace it.
I'd also toss in a new air filter and new breather element.
Body mounts. Step back from the truck. If the beauty line in the lower part of the bed doesn't line up with the line on the cab. Replace the mounts.
Motor mounts. Inspect. Replace if necessary.
Transmission mount. On my 4x4 the transfer case/tranny are mounted by bolting the metal transfer case adapter to the metal crossmember. There is nothing to wear out there. If you have a 2wd auto, there might be a tranny mount back by the tail of the tranny. I've never owned a 2wd truck but on my rear wheel drive cars of this vintage there is a mount back there. I'd inspect it and replace it if worn.
If I did all of the above to a truck or car I'd be willing to take it ANY place in the country. There isn't much else you can do to make it more reliable.