Quote:
Originally Posted by 71 super
Do you know for sure that the timing tab is correct for the engine? Is the motor a later model? chevy used two different timing locations and it is possible that someone has switched out the timing covers on the engine- then had to re-degree the engine hence the two white marks on the balancer. Take a look at the balancer and see if you can see any rubber protruding out from the two halves, this could be the indicator you need to replace the balancer as it may have slipped. To me, it sounds like there is a mix of parts -later engine and early timing cover. By chance does the engine have a long water pump on it?
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The engine had a short water pump on it to start, so I installed a short to replace it. I thought this was a little odd since the engine is newer than the truck but the alternator is on the driver's side, so I didn't give it a second thought. The double-groove pulley that is on there rides very, very close to the water pump housing though.
The engine block stamp numbers from the deck are:
V0712TYW
C772119514
The three groove pulley on the crank keeps me from seeing the front of the balancer. I felt around the back and I can feel the rubber ring sticking out evenly around the half I could get to, but I did feel a ~1/2" notch in it. I would say it's protruding from the back of the balancer's seam by 1 or 2mm. I have attached a photo. In the photo you can see the TDC mark, then a little further south the spot of white paint. Looking at the photo has given me a little more perspective and I bet that if I time the white paint mark to the paint on the tab she'll run. It seems to be close to the offset I am seeing.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tonypaul
I was thinking it could be the wrong timing tab to, or maybe the the wrong balancer- I think you did get the piston at TDC, so it should be good. Without fully seeing the engine Im only guessing but I would double check the following-
Make sure there are no vaccum leaks- check the line that goes down to the vaccum modulator on the trans.
Double check your carb gasket, you need to have one of those big thick gaskets for a quadrajet. Dont use those real thin style they will leak.
Who did the tear down of the carb? You sure it was do right?
Is the carb spitting? what color is you exhaust- black- grey, wht, none?
Will the engine come up in the rpm's smoothly or is it chocking or stalling?
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Since I'm not driving it right now I am going to pull the trans modulator line and cap the port on the carb. That will be one less variable. The carb was rebuilt by a local guy, Rob Mix, that builds E85 carbs and runs the site e85carbs.com . I swapped a rusting small block that I had converted to 4-bolt splayed mains about 10 years ago for the performer I have on the engine now (sig). I have the thin gasket on there now, I'll see about picking up a thick one tonight. This is a standard carb, not E85.
When I pulled the timing in yesterday to match the TDC mark the carb started spitting then caught on fire when it stalled. When trying to get it back to the setting where it ran it belched little fireballs here and there. Once back to about 60 advanced there was no more spitting. The exhaust smells rich and varnish-like but no noticeable smoke. I have been a little concerned by this; the entire time I've been messing with the engine I haven't had smoke in the exhaust.
When I first started the engine after getting the distributor back in she idled at about 1500 and pulled smoothly through 4000. I didn't go any further because it was straight header and I hadn't timed it. When it came back down from 4000 it went down into a stall.
I'm thinking that tonight I'll try matching up the paint mark on the balancer with the mark on the timing tab and see if it runs. I'll also perform a compression test, simply because I haven't yet and I really should have.