Quote:
Originally Posted by CC69Rat
Blam ! 
20's up front or 18's? Maybe the rear's are 22" ? Either way, I wouldnt do one thing to it but bag it. ... just me.
I'd even leave the dash pad as is. Cool old truck man! I'd leave the sun burn on the hood, ALL of it. Or just bring it to Chatt and you won't have to worry about it anymore.  |
damn you, you just HAD to do that...! 20 front 22 rears
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChevyCruizer
Lots of questions...I only have a few answers.
Rubber brake lines are fine for disc brakes, well if they are in good shape. Looks for cracks, buldging, leaking. If they are bad just buy factory replacement 71-72 brake hoses. $7.43 each on rockauto.com
You would be suprised how low you can go, even with bags, without hitting everything. Look at my avatar/profile picture. Sure I cant drive with it that low but I think it looks cool sitting at a red light when I air it out then pump it back up to drive away. Vegas lights are forever long. LOL
I still have my inner fenderwells installed and the bed floor is not cut. I do have drop spindals, air bags and a bolt in C notch in the back.
On your front spindal question. The rotors and calipers are all the same (not talking aftermarket). The only difference is the spindal/ball joint. 71-72 have smaller ball joints than the 73 thru what 87. Now with that said either will work fine but the 73 up are a little beefier. Just make sure you know what you have so you get the right ball joints.
Bump stops, just cut them down to save money. If you want new just pick up universal fit poly ones that bolt in with a bolt/nut in the size that gives you enough clearance but will keep you from metal on metal contact. I dont have any installed at the moment. Only one time did I have a problem. I rubbed thru an air line and my front left bag deflated. I just adjusted the other bag pressure so I could limp it home, but i could still drive. Just not fully corner.
Rear lowering blocks are the same as lifting blocks. Our coil spring rearend uses different u bolts and the blocks are shaped different than most "common" blocks but there are several places that sell kits specific for out rear end. You can get pretty low without the C notch but will definately want a thin bump stop back there.
Your "rainbow" seat cover makes me want to hug a kitten. LOL
The only real advice I can give you is if you are thinking about going one direction, weather it be Porterbuilt bagged whatever, but are thinking of doing it in steps to save a dime, well just go with the way you want it right off the bat. Lots of guys here end up redoing their truck 2, 3 times to get where they originally wanted to be. (including me) You end up spending way more money and time in the long run. Know what I mean?
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when i say it has rubber brake lines, i mean it has rubber brake lines... from the rearend all the way up almost to the master cylinder...! and by brake line, i mean gas line, used as brake line...! the sheer amount of expansion the line has to have everytime you stomp on the brakes is ridiculous!
your truck does have a nice stance! also, i would think to do bags, i would have to ditch the leafs(mine came with a leaf spring rear and not the coils) and switch to a trailing arm rear suspension... im sure you could take out a few leafs and then put a bag on to raise it, or get lowered springs and a bag, but i wonder about the either of those setups handling any kind of power once i do the motor.
and yes i know what you mean, i hate doing stuff and wasting money just to redo it again... i just cant decide if i really want to go air as much as i DO like it. just because of the increased expense of going that route...
i'll see how long those vegas stoplights are near the end of next month. the fiance and are are flying there for 4 nights and meeting up with some friends from australia for atleast a couple of those days, then who knows. so i wont actually be driving though. ugh.