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Re: u joints for my 72
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Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter
If he just needs three u joints, its a bit overkill to take it to a driveline shop. Why turn a 40 dollar job into a 200 dollar job ?
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He has already replaced the carrier bearing. That alone warrants a ballance job. The ballance always changes when swapping carrier bearings, and the better the ballance the longer the rubber surround will last. if the parts weren't marked and not reassembled the exact way it was when the shaft was ballanced last (probably 40 years ago). The stub for the bolt on yoke for these shafts is usually too long for the bolt to tighten the yoke properly.
If he can't identify the joints that are in the shaft now as original, one can only assume they have been replaced, did whoever replaced them last time mark everything or have the shaft ballanced then?
we charge less than $10 to install our joints, $15 you bring in junk joints from a parts store. If we have to fix the joints you installed improperly at least another $10 if you didn't ruin a $30 weld yoke.
I think a 2 piece ballance is $65 so less than $100 for 3 joints and a ballance. If it ends up being a $200 job the shop had to fix a bunch of stuff you didn't even know was wrong. Probably saving you time, money, and a headache trying to figure out why your rebuilt driveshaft still vibrates.
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67, swb, fleet, tach, throttle, 5.3, 4l60e, 3.73's, fuel cell, 5 lug, p.d.b., 4-6 drop. great little truck
66, stevens drag/ski 18' silouette, 350, 2.02 doublehump heads. comp extreme marine 278 cam, vette 7 fin valve covers, old polished edelbrock intake, velvetdrive, casale v-drive, adj cavitation plate.
28, model a rpu project,
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