[67c10rustbuket]

Answers (and opinions) in GREEN

Originally Posted by bbcmudtruck

Ok, so if I understand you correctly, the cross member and arms are from 73+, but the frame could still be period correct?

correct

I will measure the rotors to tell you how thick they are. So if I am going to order arms and drop spindles, they would need to be for 73+ model correct?

71-79 or 80-87 "HD"for 1.25" brakes same thing, if you have 1.00 rotors there are some other specific parts, wheel bearing, calipers etc. I dont think OE style arms are made for 67-72 but the 73+ are made. If you are going to add drop spindles it would be cheapest to go with the year model of suspension you have due to ball joint and tie rod differences. You dont want to be one of those guys posting a WTB ad for a year appropriate center link because you didn't know any better when you bought drop spindles. (like me)

Would the cross member be riveted to the frame or bolted in from the factory?

bolted in with 7 bolts per side or probably 6 per side in your case. 3 in the bottom flange, 4 in the side 2 that are visible (one missing in your pic) and 2 under the upper control arm shaft

Also, I found a real 71 short bed frame not to far from me on craigslist with front disk brakes for $600 bucks. Would it be worth it to just switch my cab over to a real short bed frame? I also just found a short box for 1100 bucks with very minimal rust. So I am going to be taking the bed off anyway. Switching cabs wouldn't be much more work since I'm pulling the motor and trans to put a 496/400 combo in. Thoughts?

It maybe depending on how far you want to go with it. When considering resale and piece of mind I would go for an original short wheel base frame. But if the shortening job looks up to par "don't fix what isn't broken"

Nice truck by the way!