[RichardJ]

>>The shims really aren't the best method because it throws the steering geometry off a bit. The other method known as "heat and beat" entails heating the frame horn with a torch and beating it with a BFH. I don't own an acetylene torch setup so I used mapp gas and got it pretty darn close. Just had to use 1 washer on the bolts. In 2 years I've made many improvements on my '67 but that power steering has been by FAR the best one.<<

Actually the 1 washer is perfect. It would seem strange, but the center line of the P/steer pitman shaft is closer to the mounting pad surfaces by the thickness of the 1 washer.
I set the manual box on a flat steel table surface and measured to the center of the pitman shaft. You can't set the P box on a flat surface because it is too fat. I placed 1/2" spacers under each of the mounting ears and took the measurement, table to pitman shaft center. After the 1/2" was subtracted, the P/steer box was found to be shorter by the thickness of some washers I had.

I heated the frame in the area between the bolt holes with a Rosebud and tapped it in.
The Sag box casting wasn't very smooth so I cleaned it up with an angle grinder. I coated the box with chalk and checked the fit without the washers and the high spots were easy to see. A little heat with a couple of taps and a little more grinding and it fit.
I spot welded the washers to the frame, because it proved to be very difficult getting them in place with one set of hands.

P/steer was a great improvement, especially with a smaller steering wheel. I have to put AC and more suitable highway gears as #1 and #2, but the much faster steering ratio with easier maneuvering is right in there. Just because it's an old truck, doesn't mean you have to sweat and feel like your wrestling a bear parking it.