[dsraven]

when you do a mustangII or front clip from something else you really need to know the proper rake angle you are looking for and ensure the frame is set at that angle and level side to side before you start anything. I used some modified jack stands with threaded rod and lock nuts on mine to get the frame setting firmly off the floor and not relying on a block of wood, which can compress or move, along with a digital level, to make sure it is all good. you would be surprised at the actual difference between the bubble level on the digital level, which would look like it was bang on, then when the digital screen was checked the angles could be out by a degree or two. that makes a difference when you are talking about front end alignment angles.
a front clip is possibly easier in that it comes to you already in one piece. the weld in members have to be assembled in place so it becomes a little more involved and you need some spendy clamps etc to hold it all together while you measure and tack stuff. the kit I bought was shipped to me with the incorrect cross member and tech support was poor."just set it level and weld it in". well, thats great but I had 1/2 " gap on the frame at some areas. not really any help given from the vendor in the blueprint end of things. anyway, if you buy a kit somewhere ensure you get the blueprint of the thing so you know the angles and distances between pivot points etc. same goes for a front clip. research the angle of the lower control arms etc or measure and document them before taking the clip out of the donor vehicle (make sure the engine and trans etc are still in so your measurements are correct). that way you know what the angles are before, so you can copy them on assembly and weld in. there are lots of pics if you google it. some not so nice jobs and some really professional looking jobs. it seems like a stock frame with a newer steering arrangement may be the better way to go with a panel.
any ideas on what you want for rear suspension? rear diff?