Re: A good upgrade from leaf to coils?
Quote:
Originally Posted by theastronaut
I'm going with the three link kit from No Limit. The geometry of the links plants the tires better off the line and out of corners and won't bind as the suspension articulates.
From those pics, the tubular CPP trailing arms have a very stiff bushing design at the front pivot which will not allow much articulation without binding. Not a good design. The factory I-beam trailing arm design allows twisting which allows the axle to pivot more easily. You want the springs, shocks, and sway bars to control the roll stiffness, not the binding of suspension components.
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Make sure you either talk to Rob before you place your order or make sure you know exactly what needs to be ordered. I ordered my 3-link (with shockwaves) without talking to him because on numerous occasions he did not return my calls like I was told he would. When the cross member arrived, it was the one with hoop on the bottom (I knew I needed the hoop on the top). With my 5.5" ride height the driveshaft hits even at ride height. One would think that since I got the shockwaves, they would have assumed its not going on a factory height truck and that they would have shipped me the one with the hoop on the top of the crossmember. When I called to ask about it (I was very polite given what I had heard from other people about him), he treated me like crap. I am now modifying the crossmember to work and torching off the upper link bracket to make link angles better. If you order the 3-link from him, I'd recommend ordering it without the upper link bracket welded on. That way you can put it where you want.
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- Patrick
1964 GMC pickup lwb ~ My newest build!
1937 Ford Coupe ~ Custom frame, LS1, quickchange
1950 Chevrolet 3100 ~ Bagged (Sold)
1931 Chrysler Roadster ~'32 Ford Frame, Channeled 8"  (Originally a 60's show car)
1967 Chevelle ~ 454 Triple Black (Sold)
1964 Chevrolet Impala SS (Sold)
Last edited by patrickk1; 11-08-2016 at 12:16 PM.
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