You read it correctly Jeepster.
You'll end up with 2 solenoids, (the original Chevy and the remote F@rd one). Seems like extra BS doesn't it! It does work well though.
I can't really remember exactly why it works but it's something to do with "heat soak" and then something about the chevy type solenoid takes alot more amperage to activate than the Ford type.
Instead of the purple wire having to carry the extra amperage to activate the chevy solenoid you have full amperage straight from the battery, (through the remote solenoid and the battery cable), to activate the solenoid.
I also like this setup for the reasons kwmech stated.
Another reason is if you've ever had a positive cable short out against the manifold, (leaves you walking if you're lucky), this cures that too. Even if the cable does somehow come in contact with the manifold, (or headers), there's no "power" there until you hit the start switch.
I did have one rather "different" experience with my setup once though. On my 72 before I went to the newer style bellhousing, (it had the old style that the starter bolted to the bellhousing), I drove to work one morning and just happen to driveby my truck sitting in the plant, (I work road construction), and noticed something hanging under the truck. Closer inspection and I found out it was the starter hanging by the cable! One bolt had come loose and then the other two ears on the starter broke off. I don't know how long I drove with it hanging like that!
On the good side, my truck is a stick so I just unbolted the cable at the remote solenoid, threw the starter in the back, had a friend pushstart me and drove home.
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72 C20 4X4 454 4 speed
89 Trans Am (was) 305 TPI 700r4
93 C1500 2wd Extended cab 350 700r4
98 Sonoma (TPI outa the Trans Am)
03 Yamaha 660 Raptor
03/04 660 Raptor
07 700 Raptor
85 Honda Odyssey
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