I just got done doing mine and use an air impact with a socket to get them on. The breaker bar and cheater pipe were killing me. I did grease the threads on the cups before I started. I didn't at first and then had second thoughts and pulled it back apart and put grease. When I got done and put the grease fittings in it didn't take much more grease to fill them up.
I ran them down with the air impact and then went the last little bit with the breaker bar and torque wrench. I'm pretty sure it took more torque than the final torque spec just to get them installed. I did have one that really wouldn't budge once it was tight and ended up loosening the caps a little because I couldn't rotate the shaft to line up the dimple. Put the torque wrench back on and it still clicked after loosening.
I'm not sure exactly what is being torqued here because normally when you are tightening a bolt you are stretching it a certain amount. Those lower shafts are so big I can't imagine they are stretching much.
This thread has some good info:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=544901
I found that thread because I was looking for what MOOG said to torque the bolts to. 100 ft/lb which is less than the factory manual.
Mine ended up with one arm that would stay in whatever position you put it and one that drooped when you let go. I figured it would be fine since they both moved freely and had grease on the threads.