Factory 72 oil pressure gauge connection question

[turborambler]

Can I get what I need to fix the factory oil pressure gauge connection at the back of the dash from O-reilly's or AutoZone? It does not look like a standard compression fitting and I broke it right at the back of the gauge where it goes into the small hollow brass fitting. I know I can order a kit online but if I want to try and get this locally today. Or if Napa or someone else has a way to fix the metal line end and make it work I am cool. It looks like it has a slight flare on it after it is put through the hollow copper part on the back of the gauge.

Thanks for any help!

[davepl]

[Edit - read further down the thread for the correct solution. This is a "possible" fix but not the right one for our gauges. ]

Should be a copper line with a little compression ferrule. You can cut the last inch off the tube and use a new ferrule. The nut and the gauge compress the ferrule to create the seal.

You might get them at home depot if they go that small, otherwise NAPA I assume.

If any of your friends are car guys there are usually a couple of spares kicking around people's garages from old oil pressure gauges and so on.

[leftybass209]

YES! I took care of it about a month ago. Mine had a rack of brass fittings. They had the 1/8 inch compression screw in, and a pack of 4 compression fittings.

[Lee H]

If you have an original gauge and block fitting the correct oil line kit fittings will look like the picture below. All GM cars and trucks of the era with an oil pressure gauge used this fitting. If you try to use a generic oil line kit with compression ferrules you will ruin the oil pressure gauge and block fitting and it will leak.

The correct kit can be had from most DYI auto stores like NAPA, Car Quest, or marketers for your trucks like Brothers, Classic Heartbeat, GMCPaul’s, etc.

[turborambler]

Yeah I knew a regular compression fitting would not work. i will look for a compression screw setup. I went ahead and ordered a kit from LMC but I will go see if I can find one.

Thanks everyone!

[davepl]

That picture is indeed the correct part. Not sure why a ferrule with the right compression nut wouldn't work, but if you say so...

Obviously it's a male nut and a female receiver, which is backwards from the normal setup.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by davepl

That picture is indeed the correct part. Not sure why a ferrule with the right compression nut wouldn't work, but if you say so...

Obviously it's a male nut and a female receiver, which is backwards from the normal setup.

It won't work because the back of the gauge where the line seals is internal threads. That is why it uses the compression sleeve nut. The nuts that work with the ferrules are for external threads. The external threads on the back of the gauge are only for the nut that holds the gauge in the metal panel.

LockDoc

[davepl]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

It won't work because the back of the gauge where the line seals is internal threads. That is why it uses the compression sleeve nut. The nuts that work with the ferrules are for external threads. The external threads on the back of the gauge are only for the nut that holds the gauge in the metal panel.

LockDoc

I agree, and I don't know if you can even buy the parts, but if you used a line and a ferrule and a male threaded tube nut behind the ferrule, it should work. That nut would to have the reverse taper that you in the back of the gauge.

This is the closest I could quickly find to what I'm talking about. Close but not exact.

[leftybass209]

I'm not arguing that I don't have what was original, but to say something will not work is to say it would leak. My setup has been on and off 4 times back to back with no leaks, so I'm confused how that equates to not working? It was removed due to other gauge issues with a new compression ferrule each time no leaks and no thread damage. Could someone clarify this anomaly?