|
04-14-2004, 09:10 PM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 22,068
|
What do 'ya think....
For the past few months I've been struggling w/an intermittent fault w/the ign switch. Some times it will start right up.... other times I'm forced to use my remote start switch.
Since it will spin right over sometimes by itself & always w/the remote switch, I concluded the switch on the column base was going kaput. I went to my GM guy & he couldn't find me the correct switch for my 74, so I picked one up @ the 'zone' & installed it last night.... Would you believe w/my incredible luck, it still does the same crap. So I swapped the GM part back on w/no improvement.... yet when both are hooked up the trucks starts on the first try w/the remote. The only thing I didn't like was after swapping to the new part the ign lock itself started getting much harder to turn (if there's no switch @ the bottom, the lock tumbler rotates freely). Any diagnosis out there?
__________________
67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
04-15-2004, 05:45 AM | #2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 22,068
|
ttt
__________________
67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
04-15-2004, 07:24 AM | #3 |
Slots go on anything!
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Richardson, TX
Posts: 5,957
|
Where is the remote start switch put in at? I would check out the distribution box on the firewall or the wiring going to the starter itself.
__________________
1974 Jimmy- 5.3/4L80e/NP241 |
04-15-2004, 09:49 AM | #4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Plano
Posts: 83
|
I don't know how your remote switch is wired but I would get out your test light and check the leads coming out of the switch and at the remote relay and see what is going on. Most intermittent problems can usually be traced to a poor connection somewhere, or a poor ground. As for the cylinder binding check the rod going to the switch, it is easy to get it in a bind.
hope this helps. matt |
04-15-2004, 11:09 AM | #5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 22,068
|
The remote switch is your typical remote starter & it hooks up @ the starter ( the kind you use to bump the motor over when setting valves & such).
MattA.... I thought it might be the rack/rod not engaging the switch completely so I removed the switch from the column base & plugged all the wiring back up again to allow me to verify whether or not the rod is moving the switch properly. Even w/me moving the switch throughout it's range I couldn't get it to start everytime. I know it's not anything as far as wiring to the starter because it starts first try when using the remote hand switch. I also figured the rod was somehow binding against the 'new' aftermarket switch so I put the old one back on. It seems the problem is still there.
__________________
67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
04-15-2004, 02:27 PM | #6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Plano
Posts: 83
|
Hey you may want to check the neutral saftey switch. It should be at the base of the column. If it is not adjusted correctly it will do what you described, and by using the jumper switch you are bypassing it. Use the test light and make sure it is getting and transfering power when it moves.
let me know what happens. matt |
04-15-2004, 05:10 PM | #7 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 22,068
|
I considered the neutral safety @ first. I tried moving the shifter back & forth to give it some 'over-travel' in each direction but it didn't seem to make a difference.
Weird thing is sometimes when I would get in & turn the key it would start w/no probs. I could shut it off... turn the key to start again & nothing (w/o touching a thing).... leave the key in the run position, bump the remote & it will fire right up again.
__________________
67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
04-15-2004, 05:35 PM | #8 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Plano
Posts: 83
|
When you get home check it with a test light it could be going open internally. With the test light illuminated wiggle the switch and see if it goes open.
matt |
04-16-2004, 09:50 AM | #9 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 22,068
|
ttt
__________________
67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|