Attaching angles to bed sides - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

**JIMs70GMC** · 05-13-2004, 07:47 AM

Ok, The Chevy/GMC I got from Dean is running great, new cab on, front end rebuilt and is looking/sounding good.
Time for the bed, I got a 67 long step, totally disassembled. I had to cut off the angles that were spot welded to the bedsides. I don't have a spot welder and was thinking of drilling little holes the length of the angle and "spot welding" the angle on that way. Does this sound ok? Also, what's the best way to determine where to mount the angle? How far up from the bottom edge, etc.... I was thinking of doing a mock fit on the truck and tack the angle on then remove the sides and finish it up.

Thanks,

JimKshortstep4x4 · 05-13-2004, 09:01 AM

Drilling holes and creating your own spot welds will work very well. A lot of the time when we mock up, we will use self drilling/self tapping screws to fasten the part in place. It is quick and easy and then the holes from the screws can be welded up.

I can get you a measurement from the bed rail to the angle tonight if you need it.

Jim

Dean · 05-13-2004, 09:03 AM

I've done "spot welds" like that with my mig welder. Seemed to work great for me anyway.

I'm not sure about the location of the angles, but a mock up on the truck doesn't sound like a bad idea. I've never had a step bed so I don't know much about them. Some pics might help me understand what you are doing exactly.

Good luck!

**JIMs70GMC** · 05-13-2004, 09:09 AM

Good to hear about the spot weld technique.

Dean, the angle is what attaches the bedside to the wood/cross members. From the factory it is spot welded to the bedside and actually supports the weight of the whole bedside except at the ends it is bolted to the rear cross member and at front it is attached to the front panel. I'll get some pics, too.

Jim, a measurement would be great to start with but I'll still mock fit prior to welding all 75+ spot welds.

MOTHERTRUCKERS · 05-13-2004, 09:13 AM

We bolt the front panel and the rear sill on and measure up 13/16" from the front lip and rear sill shelf on the beds we build, I found that 13/16 rather than 3/4 lets the finished wood slide in without marring the clear coat. Drilling holes in the bed side for welding instead of the strip is easier grinding after welding to avoid nicking the angle strip rolled lip edge. In all cases use a good 8ft straight edge as a guide on the angle strip or replacing the top rolled tube, it gets swayback pretty quick.

**JIMs70GMC** · 05-13-2004, 10:28 AM

Good point Ed. Thanks!

JimKshortstep4x4 · 05-13-2004, 08:23 PM

From the top of the bedside to the top of the angle is 16 1/2" . The "leg" of the angle is 1" and the angles on my bed are original. They did not need replacing, thankfully.

Good luck!

Jim

**JIMs70GMC** · 05-13-2004, 08:55 PM

Jim, Thanks!

05-13-2004, 07:47 AM	#1
JIMs70GMC user # 2756 Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Chesapeake, Virginia Posts: 4,612	Attaching angles to bed sides Ok, The Chevy/GMC I got from Dean is running great, new cab on, front end rebuilt and is looking/sounding good. Time for the bed, I got a 67 long step, totally disassembled. I had to cut off the angles that were spot welded to the bedsides. I don't have a spot welder and was thinking of drilling little holes the length of the angle and "spot welding" the angle on that way. Does this sound ok? Also, what's the best way to determine where to mount the angle? How far up from the bottom edge, etc.... I was thinking of doing a mock fit on the truck and tack the angle on then remove the sides and finish it up. Thanks, __________________ 1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm

05-13-2004, 09:09 AM	#4
JIMs70GMC user # 2756 Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Chesapeake, Virginia Posts: 4,612	Good to hear about the spot weld technique. Dean, the angle is what attaches the bedside to the wood/cross members. From the factory it is spot welded to the bedside and actually supports the weight of the whole bedside except at the ends it is bolted to the rear cross member and at front it is attached to the front panel. I'll get some pics, too. Jim, a measurement would be great to start with but I'll still mock fit prior to welding all 75+ spot welds. __________________ 1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm

05-13-2004, 09:13 AM	#5
MOTHERTRUCKERS Registered User Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: BRADENTON FLA Posts: 3,269	We bolt the front panel and the rear sill on and measure up 13/16" from the front lip and rear sill shelf on the beds we build, I found that 13/16 rather than 3/4 lets the finished wood slide in without marring the clear coat. Drilling holes in the bed side for welding instead of the strip is easier grinding after welding to avoid nicking the angle strip rolled lip edge. In all cases use a good 8ft straight edge as a guide on the angle strip or replacing the top rolled tube, it gets swayback pretty quick. __________________ Rest in Peace Ed. Thanks for all the good times.

05-13-2004, 10:28 AM	#6
JIMs70GMC user # 2756 Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Chesapeake, Virginia Posts: 4,612	Good point Ed. Thanks! __________________ 1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm

05-13-2004, 08:55 PM	#8
JIMs70GMC user # 2756 Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Chesapeake, Virginia Posts: 4,612	Jim, Thanks! __________________ 1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm

05-13-2004, 09:01 AM	#2
JimKshortstep4x4 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Muskegon,MI,USA Posts: 6,026	Drilling holes and creating your own spot welds will work very well. A lot of the time when we mock up, we will use self drilling/self tapping screws to fasten the part in place. It is quick and easy and then the holes from the screws can be welded up. I can get you a measurement from the bed rail to the angle tonight if you need it. Jim

05-13-2004, 09:03 AM	#3
Dean Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2000 Location: Cincinnati, Ohio Posts: 1,492	I've done "spot welds" like that with my mig welder. Seemed to work great for me anyway. I'm not sure about the location of the angles, but a mock up on the truck doesn't sound like a bad idea. I've never had a step bed so I don't know much about them. Some pics might help me understand what you are doing exactly. Good luck!

05-13-2004, 08:23 PM	#7
JimKshortstep4x4 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Muskegon,MI,USA Posts: 6,026	From the top of the bedside to the top of the angle is 16 1/2" . The "leg" of the angle is 1" and the angles on my bed are original. They did not need replacing, thankfully. Good luck! Jim

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