flip kit and shackle= cnotch??

[ocbaud]

since my rearend is out, and i've got to take my leafsprings out, i thought i might wanna get some lowering shackles for the truck. would i have to run a cnotch to run these? right now i've got about 4.5" of clearance between the frame and axle and i have never once bottomed out. most big bumps and train tracks and stuff like that i take really slowly(especially with my new wheels, even though i've got 50 series tires)

[BaggedC10]

I can't imagine not having a C-notch w/ a flip kit. Let alone + shackles.....

[swervin ervin]

Shackles will lower it about another 1.25" or so. A c-notch would be mandatory on my list. Only thing though, you should have marked where the axle center line was on the frame before removing it. With it not in there, no way to know where to put the notch.

[ocbaud]

Originally Posted by swervin ervin

Shackles will lower it about another 1.25" or so. A c-notch would be mandatory on my list. Only thing though, you should have marked where the axle center line was on the frame before removing it. With it not in there, no way to know where to put the notch.

well, to put a notch in i would have had to take the bed off, which i dont wanna do right now, and i cant afford the cnotch right now either, so i guess i wont get teh shackles

[loblazer]

Ocbaud, I put a 5" c-notch in my 80 Blazer without taking the body off. You should be able to do yours I would think.
I got a 5 inch I.D. steel schedule 80 pipe. I cut a piece off on the chop saw, the width of the frame. I then cut it in half to make 2 pieces. I made a template for the side pieces and had them cut and drilled by a machine shop from 1/4 plate.
My buddy and I then put the truck up on his hoist, supported the back frame, drilled and mounted the side plate. Then we cut the C out by torch, a little at a time to keep it cool.
Then we welded in the 5" pipe. We put weld all around the pipe when done to add strength.
Added new bump stops in the centre top.
Works good, no cracks, no sagging, no bottoming out.

Doug

[blitz'd]

Originally Posted by loblazer

Ocbaud, I put a 5" c-notch in my 80 Blazer without taking the body off. You should be able to do yours I would think.
I got a 5 inch I.D. steel schedule 80 pipe. I cut a piece off on the chop saw, the width of the frame. I then cut it in half to make 2 pieces. I made a template for the side pieces and had them cut and drilled by a machine shop from 1/4 plate.
My buddy and I then put the truck up on his hoist, supported the back frame, drilled and mounted the side plate. Then we cut the C out by torch, a little at a time to keep it cool.
Then we welded in the 5" pipe. We put weld all around the pipe when done to add strength.
Added new bump stops in the centre top.
Works good, no cracks, no sagging, no bottoming out.

Doug

If its a 5" pipe cut in half wouldnt that make it a 2.5" notch?

[Izzy]

You can do the notch on a 73-current SWB's without pulling the bed.

[Captkaos]

Ditto on what everyone else said. You can do it without pulling the bed, it just makes it easier...

[SCOTI]

The flip kit + shackles does need a c-notch but it is possible to drive around w/o one. I still haven't added the c-notch to mine & have been driving it daily now for well over a year.

I can't carry any excess weight though.

[Captkaos]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

I can't carry any excess weight though.

So, you are saying is you have to watch your girlish figure all the time?

[low 84]

depends on what notch you get. you do have to pull the bed when using a western chasis notch, it has bolts that go on top on the frame rail. i'm not sure if the djm and belltech notches are the same way

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Captkaos

So, you are saying is you have to watch your girlish figure all the time?

No . . . . I don't have to worry too much. But if my GF gets in the truck & I mention something along the lines of.... "gee.... it usually doesn't bottom out w/just me in it" . ...... , I'll be sleeping in that no c-notch havin' truck (not that I haven't slept there already for various other reasons).

low 84 depends on what notch you get. you do have to pull the bed when using a western chasis notch, it has bolts that go on top on the frame rail.

Yep, that's right about the Western Chassis c-notch. Because of the right angle curve that sits on top of the frame rail, the bed needs to come off so you can drill the holes. The little 1/4" thick roll that's on the top of the notch is a little stronger than just a 1/4" plate bolted to the side of the frame IMO.

[low 84]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

The little 1/4" thick roll that's on the top of the notch is a little stronger than just a 1/4" plate bolted to the side of the frame IMO.

i agree, thats why i used them on mine