What a way to spend the day off.... - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

LeftEar55 · 03-25-2005, 08:07 PM

Well, about 9-10 this morning, I went to the shop and rolled the frame out. Pressure washed it, scraped some more 50 year old grease off and pressure washed again. Then, after a few minutes in the Alabama sun, it had dried completely. I started sandblasting all the frame and finally got finished about 3pm. I was going to go ahead and shoot a few coats of gloss black on it, but the damn store I went to, was out of paint

So, tomorrow, I'm thinking about going ahead and spraying it. Should I have to prime it or can I use a spray gun and apply several coats of black to the semi bare metal? What brand should I use? I was thinking about BPS Gloss Black? Should I go with a Rustoleum (sp?) gallon instead? Here's a pic of the frame. I knew these air jacks would come in handy one day

3100 special · 03-25-2005, 11:05 PM

Must be nice to have a sand blaster!. Epoxy primer first. Some might recommend an teching primer but, going down like you have, I don't think you'll need it. There's alot of different sources but, here's the folks I'll be using when it time for me to buy primer.
www.southernpolyurethanes.com

Couple of threads to read:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ighlight=Barry
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php3?t=80127

LeftEar55 · 03-26-2005, 01:57 AM

Well, I've seen a few people just spray it whatever color, right after sanding?

I didn't want to prime it, then sand it again, then spray the black, but I guess I will

LeftEar55 · 03-26-2005, 02:03 AM

Also, where can I get the epoxy stuff at? I'm trying to save money here and make an every other day driver out of this truck. Does that mean, if I apply the epoxy, I then have to sand it? Then goes the black? This is all very confusing

3100 special · 03-26-2005, 04:35 PM

You shouldn't have to sand it after priming. Click on the link in my previous message for a company that can supply the good primer...OR
order some Zero Rust off of the Internet and call it done (I'd put on two coats though).

LeftEar55 · 03-26-2005, 05:16 PM

Actually, I got it primed today

I applied a nice couple of coats. It was a pain too! I thought about going ahead and painting the black today, but it's supposed to be rainy tonight and I decided not too. I'm probably about to order a complete brake restore and brake lines and start to work on the rear leaves.

crews · 03-27-2005, 12:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 3100 special

You shouldn't have to sand it after priming.

Not to stick my nose in here, but that statement kind of depends on the type of primer you use well as the time between prime/ topcoat. Any epoxy primer will have a "window" of time that you MUST topcoat it or the primer will harden and will not allow the topcoat to "attach" properly. It will come off in sheets. I am sure any etching primer will work the same way. You MIGHT be able to get away with not sanding a filler type primer, but even that would be iffy after a certain amount of time.

Primer is an adhesion promoter when used properly. It is best to make friends with the local body supply place that sells your preferred brand of paint and go there for the straight answers.

Just trying to help!!!

solidaxel · 03-29-2005, 08:49 PM

Jason, you are doing a great job, keep up the hard work you will be repaid when you go to put it back together!! After it is all back together you and the guy that changes the oil will be the only one that knows how much hard work was performed, because that will be all covered up with sheet metal and wood.A after thought did you explore POR paint, or Paint Over Rust

67ChevyC10Stepside · 04-03-2005, 12:07 AM

should have just PORed it.. is there anything special about that sandblaster? we have one that is just a big plastic thing with sand in it....then you hook a hose to the gun and a air hose and it syphons it out and shoots....would that work for doing a frame?

3100 special · 04-03-2005, 07:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 67ChevyC10Stepside

should have just PORed it.. is there anything special about that sandblaster? we have one that is just a big plastic thing with sand in it....then you hook a hose to the gun and a air hose and it syphons it out and shoots....would that work for doing a frame?

From what you're describing, it should work.

Botietruck · 05-16-2005, 10:32 PM

A siphon blaster will take a long time to do the frame and heavy parts. Not trying to make a sale here but look at my compressor and blaster for sale under General Discussion/Everything Else For Sale. Read the description. I have used this set up to blast many of my truck parts. It did a great job. To get the job done right you will need a good sized compressor.
I must say it feels good to get everything blasted, primed & painted and start assembly of nice clean parts. Good luck 67ChevyC10stepside on your project. I'm doing a '71 stepside and loving it. Any pics of yours?

67ChevyC10Stepside · 05-16-2005, 11:04 PM

i got rid of the GMC clip and got a 67 chev clip....heres the motor as it sits tonight....

03-25-2005, 08:07 PM	#1
LeftEar55 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Huntsville, Alabama Posts: 107	What a way to spend the day off.... Well, about 9-10 this morning, I went to the shop and rolled the frame out. Pressure washed it, scraped some more 50 year old grease off and pressure washed again. Then, after a few minutes in the Alabama sun, it had dried completely. I started sandblasting all the frame and finally got finished about 3pm. I was going to go ahead and shoot a few coats of gloss black on it, but the damn store I went to, was out of paint So, tomorrow, I'm thinking about going ahead and spraying it. Should I have to prime it or can I use a spray gun and apply several coats of black to the semi bare metal? What brand should I use? I was thinking about BPS Gloss Black? Should I go with a Rustoleum (sp?) gallon instead? Here's a pic of the frame. I knew these air jacks would come in handy one day Attached Images

03-25-2005, 11:05 PM	#2
3100 special Street Rod Dreamin' Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Work:Batam, Indonesia/ Home:League City, Texas Posts: 1,241	Must be nice to have a sand blaster!. Epoxy primer first. Some might recommend an teching primer but, going down like you have, I don't think you'll need it. There's alot of different sources but, here's the folks I'll be using when it time for me to buy primer. www.southernpolyurethanes.com Couple of threads to read: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ighlight=Barry http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php3?t=80127 __________________ 1954 Chevy 3100 Panel Truck 2004 GMC Yukon 2007 GMC Sierra 4X4 "I am for doing good to the poor, but I differ in opinion of the means. I think the best way of doing good to the poor, is not making them easy in poverty, but leading or driving them out of it." Benjamin Franklin, On the Price of Corn and Management of the Poor, November 1776

03-26-2005, 04:35 PM	#5
3100 special Street Rod Dreamin' Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Work:Batam, Indonesia/ Home:League City, Texas Posts: 1,241	You shouldn't have to sand it after priming. Click on the link in my previous message for a company that can supply the good primer...OR order some Zero Rust off of the Internet and call it done (I'd put on two coats though). __________________ 1954 Chevy 3100 Panel Truck 2004 GMC Yukon 2007 GMC Sierra 4X4 "I am for doing good to the poor, but I differ in opinion of the means. I think the best way of doing good to the poor, is not making them easy in poverty, but leading or driving them out of it." Benjamin Franklin, On the Price of Corn and Management of the Poor, November 1776

03-26-2005, 05:16 PM	#6
LeftEar55 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Huntsville, Alabama Posts: 107	Actually, I got it primed today I applied a nice couple of coats. It was a pain too! I thought about going ahead and painting the black today, but it's supposed to be rainy tonight and I decided not too. I'm probably about to order a complete brake restore and brake lines and start to work on the rear leaves. Attached Images

03-29-2005, 08:49 PM	#8
solidaxel Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Cactus Patch So. Az Posts: 4,749	Jason, you are doing a great job, keep up the hard work you will be repaid when you go to put it back together!! After it is all back together you and the guy that changes the oil will be the only one that knows how much hard work was performed, because that will be all covered up with sheet metal and wood.A after thought did you explore POR paint, or Paint Over Rust __________________ 53 TuTone Extended Cab 350 4-Spd 3:08 (SOLD) 53 Chevy Moldy pearl green ZZ-4 4L60E 9" 3:25 55 GMC 1st Black Mll (ZZ4) ZZ6 TKO 600 5 sp 3:73 62 Solidaxle Corvette Roman Red (327 340hp 4spd 3:36) C4 & C5 suspension tube chassis LS 3 4L70E 65 Corvette Coupe 327 350hp 4spd 4:11 78 Black Silverado SWB (350/350) 5.3 & 4L60E 3:42 2000 S-Type 3.0 (wife cruiser) 2003 GMC SCSB 5.3 4L60E 3:42

03-26-2005, 01:57 AM	#3
LeftEar55 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Huntsville, Alabama Posts: 107	Well, I've seen a few people just spray it whatever color, right after sanding? I didn't want to prime it, then sand it again, then spray the black, but I guess I will

03-26-2005, 02:03 AM	#4
LeftEar55 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Huntsville, Alabama Posts: 107	Also, where can I get the epoxy stuff at? I'm trying to save money here and make an every other day driver out of this truck. Does that mean, if I apply the epoxy, I then have to sand it? Then goes the black? This is all very confusing

04-03-2005, 12:07 AM	#9
67ChevyC10Stepside Registered User Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Butler PA Posts: 3,032	should have just PORed it.. is there anything special about that sandblaster? we have one that is just a big plastic thing with sand in it....then you hook a hose to the gun and a air hose and it syphons it out and shoots....would that work for doing a frame? __________________ 67 c-10, 400 SB, TH350, 4.10 gears, Blazer tank,camaro tach, sidemarker fuel fill (soon) WTB: stepside parts, 67 front end parts, 67 small window cab. posi for 3.73 or 4.10 for 12 bolt and 10 bolt.

05-16-2005, 10:32 PM	#11
Botietruck '71 chevy s.bed/s.side Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Chesapeake, VA Posts: 1,571	A siphon blaster will take a long time to do the frame and heavy parts. Not trying to make a sale here but look at my compressor and blaster for sale under General Discussion/Everything Else For Sale. Read the description. I have used this set up to blast many of my truck parts. It did a great job. To get the job done right you will need a good sized compressor. I must say it feels good to get everything blasted, primed & painted and start assembly of nice clean parts. Good luck 67ChevyC10stepside on your project. I'm doing a '71 stepside and loving it. Any pics of yours?

05-16-2005, 11:04 PM	#12
67ChevyC10Stepside Registered User Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Butler PA Posts: 3,032	i got rid of the GMC clip and got a 67 chev clip....heres the motor as it sits tonight.... Attached Images __________________ 67 c-10, 400 SB, TH350, 4.10 gears, Blazer tank,camaro tach, sidemarker fuel fill (soon) WTB: stepside parts, 67 front end parts, 67 small window cab. posi for 3.73 or 4.10 for 12 bolt and 10 bolt.

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