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09-13-2005, 04:39 PM | #1 |
needin' money
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lowering
how many inches does cuttin exactly a coil off get you, and taking 1 leaf out get you
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09-13-2005, 05:20 PM | #2 |
Outlandish Trends - FL
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1 coil usually will be 2 inches. 1 leaf should net approx. the same. It's a pain, but try one coil at first, if it's not as low as you want, then cut 1/2 coil at a time after that. It's better to have to go back and cut more than to cut too much and be screwed. When you take a leaf out, take out the one right on top of the overload leaf.
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09-13-2005, 06:09 PM | #3 |
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one coil was approx 1.5" for me 2 coils was too much in my opinion at approx 3.5"
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09-13-2005, 10:09 PM | #4 |
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Do you want to know "how" you should cut it?????
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09-13-2005, 11:26 PM | #5 | |
needin' money
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09-13-2005, 10:25 PM | #6 |
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Also, realize you can only cut so much off a coil and still be able to align to factory specs. That's the beauty of drop spindles. They retain the factory geometry. If you want to go lower than 2", I'd get spindles as well as cut/aftermarket drop coils.
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09-13-2005, 11:47 PM | #7 |
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How did he cut the springs?
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09-14-2005, 11:07 PM | #8 | |
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09-14-2005, 11:19 PM | #9 |
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They can be cut in a number of ways. I have cut them with a cut of wheel, a chop saw, a tile blade in a circular saw, and even a hack saw. I have used a cutting torch too, but I submerged the spring in a bucket of water to keep the temps down. The point Im trying to make is it's best to use as little heat as possible.....
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09-17-2005, 05:09 PM | #10 | |
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09-20-2005, 10:57 PM | #11 | |
needin' money
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09-16-2005, 10:38 PM | #12 |
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I'm listening too! Thanks!
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09-21-2005, 02:00 AM | #13 |
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Shortcuts...
Cutting coils reduces the total load carrying capacity of the spring. Because each coil has a load capacity (or spring rate), and they all add up to a total spring rate, any time you remove a loop or fraction thereof, you reduce the coil's ability to carry that load. In addition, with progressive rate springs (we've had this discussion before, but I don't recall the result-- are the stock coils progressive or not? I believe they are.), it's not particularly accurate to say that 1 loop = n inches, because the spring rate of each coil is different (progressively so ). Removing leafs reduces the total load carrying capacity of the spring. By removing leaves from the spring pack, you are effectively lowering the vehicle by "letting it sag." Is this a "budget rodder" method? Often. Is this safe? Not compared to engineered solutions. Are you going to do it anyway? Probably. /2 cents [fixed for typos... now going to sleep!]
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09-21-2005, 01:00 PM | #14 |
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Very well said.
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10-10-2005, 08:46 PM | #15 |
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I cut 1 1/2 coils off the front of my 68 and I think it was too much in hindsight. The spring is so short that whenever I go over uneven pavement or speedbumps the spring bounces around between the cups and sounds like its going to fall out. It was a cheap answer to my lowering needs, but I wish I would have gotten drop spindles and lowering springs. I guess it all depends on how much you can spend. Let us know what you decide to do.
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10-10-2005, 09:40 PM | #16 |
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if you cant afford to do it right dont do it. its not just your safety and your truck at stake. but thousands of other cars who are sharing the road riding next to a truck with unsafe suspension. its not safe to heat springs or cut coils. new springs are 100 bucks a set roughly
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10-10-2005, 10:56 PM | #17 | ||
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I've installed aftermarket drop springs from DJM, SoLow, BellTech, Suspension Techniques & Western Chassis in many vehicles. Some I've owned, some were lowering jobs for friends. I don't mind spending money when it's warranted. For 2" of drop, cut a coil from the stock springs & if you don't like the ride, buy some aftermarket drop springs.
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10-12-2005, 11:55 PM | #18 | ||
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Thank you and goodnight..... Last edited by N2TRUX; 10-12-2005 at 11:56 PM. |
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10-13-2005, 02:06 AM | #19 |
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Okay Mr. Ken or Scoti, I am likely very close to doing this. My wife and I were arguing about it just this morning in fact!! 1)What is the best way to cut the spring and reduce the heat? Dip it in a bucket O water? 2)I plan on getting the DJM Shackle lowering kit for the rear. Will that even ol jebby out? I am not asking for a legally binding, for sure type, fool proof, guarantee like promise just your humble educated opinion will do. I have never done this before.... Thanks to all for keeping this Thread alive I hope to benifit from it.
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10-16-2005, 05:25 PM | #20 | |
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Re: lowering
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. Last edited by SCOTI; 10-18-2005 at 08:11 PM. |
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10-28-2005, 08:45 PM | #21 |
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Re: lowering
Not exactly what I had pictured the results to be but it is low"er". I just wanted you guys to see that I finally did something rather than just talking about it! Thanks Ken and Scott for all you advise and help! I am not done by far but it's going to be a while before I can convince the wife he is still to high
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11-03-2005, 01:03 PM | #22 |
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Re: lowering
Joey,
You gave me a little more info to work with over here than my site. As noted, they are sheared from the factory, so the end will be smooth. It sounds like they were cut with a torch, not a plasma cutter. The amount of shims are irrelevant if the truck is aligned. It takes however much it takes, nothing you can do there. You can get stock height coils just about anywhere, but if the truck is lowered, you are going to be higher than you are now. There should be 4 leafs + 1 overload on a standard 1/2T suspension. Removing 1 should drop the truck about 1-1.5" depending on the state of the springs.
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