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09-22-2005, 12:13 AM
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#1 |
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Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: DFW
Posts: 765
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watts link
anyone know where I can get a watts link kit?
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The problem with America is stupidity. I'm not saying there should be a capital punishment for stupidity, but why don't we just take the safety labels off of everything and let the problem solve itself? |
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09-22-2005, 12:46 AM
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: OKC, OK
Posts: 2,364
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Try these places.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/ http://www.stockcarproducts.com/index.html http://www.allstarperformance.com/ http://www.aa-mfg.com/index.html http://racecareng.com/ Mike
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Mike Redpath |
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09-22-2005, 01:01 AM
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#3 |
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Epoxy Primer Friendly
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: South of Houston TEXXXAS
Posts: 680
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watts
ALSO CHECK THESE GUYS OUT, THERE KITS LOOK AWESOME AND WORK GREAT !
BARNYARD CUSTOMS WATTS LINK eww I sound like I work there 
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09-22-2005, 01:56 AM
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#4 |
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Active Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Ca
Posts: 211
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09-24-2005, 04:40 AM
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#5 |
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BK Built
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Oroville, WA
Posts: 478
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Totally Polished watts link = $500
Speedway motors watts link = $70 not that the TP watts link is totally bad ass, but its alot of bling and alot of money. i modded my speedway watts link and it works great, 19" of lift and only moves 1/4" from center. plus, when your layed out, no one sees it. |
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09-24-2005, 10:04 PM
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#6 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: El paso, Tx.
Posts: 428
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Sorry for Jacking.
But it's related : When mountin the bars in a watts do they have to be parallel 100%? ON the Speedway motors link do you have to mod the bars or just weld in ? |
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09-25-2005, 05:14 PM
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#7 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 256
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I have the speedway kit and had to cut the arms down a little
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66 C10 (under construction) 1.5" crossmember drop 2" Z'ed frame 8" rear notch Watts-link Bagged DJM 3" spindles |
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09-26-2005, 03:43 AM
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#8 |
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BK Built
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Oroville, WA
Posts: 478
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you really should have them as close to parallel as you can... but it doesnt have to be 100%. If you want to, make it so that the top bar extends OVER the pivot, as to give more travel. The speedway bars you need to cut, they stick about 2" out each side of the frame. I shortened mine 3" each and re-threaded them(make sure you cut off the right handed threaded side, if not... good luck finding a left handed tap) and it worked great. 19" of lift and only goes 1/4" off center.
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09-26-2005, 06:31 PM
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#9 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: modesto, ca
Posts: 3
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hey DM310, did u make the support brace that goes on the axle housing or did you buy it from another company?
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09-26-2005, 07:03 PM
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#10 |
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BK Built
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Oroville, WA
Posts: 478
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he made the brace. i also made my brace, it just follows the curve of the diff cover, the kit is designed to bolt through the diff cover, but its also designed for F*ord 9" rears which you could, but mine just goes over the diff and bolts 3 bolts top 3 bolts bottom to the diff cover.
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09-26-2005, 07:30 PM
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#11 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: modesto, ca
Posts: 3
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is there any way you could get a few pics of your support bracket?, id lke to see your design
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09-27-2005, 02:08 AM
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#12 |
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BK Built
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Oroville, WA
Posts: 478
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i wish i could get some pics, ill try to get a friend to take some though. the panel is 8 hrs away burnt to the ground sitting in our lot, good thing is the floor out back burnt out so its easy to see it all. ill try to get some pics.
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