Crossmember Notch Interference Pics

[SCOTI]

Here are the pics of the issue I ran into when I mounted the 1 3/8" notched crossmember to my Beater 68's frame. I'm wondering if the 73-up c-member is wider from the a-arm u-bolts C/L to the lip? If there's a difference, it should be insignificant..... should be . . .....

1st pic is the original c-member pass side lip untouched
2nd pic is the pass side of the notched c-member after the '1st' trim. You can see my guide-line for the amount of material that still needs to be removed for the tie-rod to clear.....

[SCOTI]

Here are some close-ups of the interference on the pass side.....

1st pic is a close-up of the outside u-bolt area
2nd pic of tie-rod hitting @ the outer edge
3rd pic same thing w/a bottom view
4th pic is from the C/L of the truck looking out . . .....

[SCOTI]

Here's a couple of shots showing that the motor mount stanchions line-up just like they should which would indicate things are assembled together correctly, @ least that's my assumption . . ....

[SCOTI]

And a final shot of the pass side after the '2nd' trim job . . ....

[SCOTI]

The drivers side is as bad or worse. I took pics of that side too but I think the posted pics give you a pretty decent idea of what I'm up against.

[XXL]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

The drivers side is as bad or worse. I took pics of that side too but I think the posted pics give you a pretty decent idea of what I'm up against.

You might want to take the clearance back as far as possible and stitch it back up with a nice weld. You don't want those pieces to separate over time (pinched top and bottom piece and the riveted-on u-bolt "washer").

[dwcsr]

I think you need to do a rack

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by dwcsr

I think you need to do a rack

No thanks, I'll put the stock crossmember back in.

I was only considering the 1.5" notch to gain a little more clearance for a daily driver.

[fastbagged68]

I know there is a trick to doing this.... without grinding the crossmember. I think you flip the center link, or something along those lines. I don't remember but there is something you can do.....

[XXL]

You just wanted to use the word "stanchion" in a post... BTW, nice motor mounts!

I'll try to get some pics of mine tonight. (I'm 'batchin' it as of this evening, but I'm also trying to get my house on the market so I have some honey-dos to do as well).

I don't believe mine had that much clearance problem. Just speculating in advance... I wonder if there are different Pitman arms that would hang your tie rods at a different height than mine. I think I stole my front end off of a '71. If you went with a '73+, maybe there's a difference there. I don't believe the xmembers have any difference other than the slotted hole issue on the frame mounting.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by XXL

You just wanted to use the word "stanchion" in a post... BTW, nice motor mounts!

I'll try to get some pics of mine tonight. (I'm 'batchin' it as of this evening, but I'm also trying to get my house on the market so I have some honey-dos to do as well).

I don't believe mine had that much clearance problem. Just speculating in advance... I wonder if there are different Pitman arms that would hang your tie rods at a different height than mine. I think I stole my front end off of a '71. If you went with a '73+, maybe there's a difference there. I don't believe the xmembers have any difference other than the slotted hole issue on the frame mounting.

Hey..... I had to look that one up to make sure I wasn't insulting my educational years.

I did consider the issue could be the parts themselves as well. One manufacturer might make their parts w/more material than another. I'm using a 71~72 drag link & pitman/idler w/73 brake stuff.

[XXL]

I just crawled out from under the hooptey and I don't see any significant clearance issues. On the driver's side, the knuckle on the center link that receives the inner tie rod is pretty darned close to the LCA u-bolt mount point, but it doesn't hit. I think you may be right about the brand issue. I can imagine brand x casting the inner tie rod pivot one way, and another a different way, and with the clearances we're talking about, all it takes is 1/4" and whack. Take a trip to your local parts house with your tie rod in hand and see what comes off their shelf. If they've got a shallower piece, it means your current tie rod is "worn out" and needs replacing

[XXL]

Oh, no pics... spouse is headed to DFW for the weekend and felt it necessary to take the digicam. No doubt in case she sees the Easter bunny.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by XXL

Oh, no pics... spouse is headed to DFW for the weekend and felt it necessary to take the digicam. No doubt in case she sees the Easter bunny.

In that case..... If I see a woman w/a digi-cam chasing around after a rabbit, I should tell her you're doing ok ?

I just crawled out from under the hooptey and I don't see any significant clearance issues.

I have more to report on this but I need to triple check a few things.
I'm taking a beer break @ the moment .

[Izzy]

Just an FYI, Moog steering joints have a smaller casting than the stock parts do. I had this experience replacing parts on my wifes old 98.

[SCOTI]

Well, I thought the mistake was my own fault because I mis-measured. But after triple checking, that's not the case. So.... I installed some 1/4" plate 'shims' & everything clears (1/4") but it's still close on the drivers side (< 1/8"; there's less room for grinding so they're not equal side-to-side).

I'm going to stop off tonight @ Oreillys & compare 71~72 vs. 73 & later tie-rods & also see if they possibly carry different manufacturers to compare as well.

If nothing pans out, 1.125" more travel before hitting is better than no gain @ all. I already made templates for permanent 'shims' for the frame-to-c.member gap & then for the bottom of the MM stanchion-to-c.member gap. I'll cut them before leaving work today.

[XXL]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

...the MM stanchion...

Slow down there, buddy. That's twice in one thread.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by XXL

....That's twice in one thread.

I did it just for you . I didn't have to look up the spelling the second time either.....

Back to the subject @ hand, the frame/c.member 'shims' are done but I was only able to cut the 'blanks' for the . . ...... well, you know (see above quote).

[FRENCHBLUE72]

Can we see some pics when its finished????

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by FRENCHBLUE72

Can we see some pics when its finished????

Sure. Did you want them as naked steel or w/color?

[FRENCHBLUE72]

Dont matter I test fitted my notched crossmember last weekend but dont have any steering or a-arms on it its just the crossmember... Just wondering what other work I need to focus on before I por-15 the crossmember and put it back in fot the last time..

[SCOTI]

I would highly recommend breaking out all of the steering pieces for a trial fitting first. Articles I've read & discussions I've heard indicated there wouldn't be much trimming required but the pics don't lie.

Every install will be different so I'm glad I did it this way vs. finding out after the fact.

[qksilver]

I don't have a dropped crossmember, just taking one form a 87 p/u and swapping into a 67. I noticed how close my cebter link is to the cross member about a 1/4 clearance at stock height. I drove the truck into the shop before stripping it.
With all the notch's for future reference, next year, should I stick with 87 parts? since I am swapping the complete front suspension?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by qksilver

I don't have a dropped crossmember, just taking one form a 87 p/u and swapping into a 67. I noticed how close my cebter link is to the cross member about a 1/4 clearance at stock height. I drove the truck into the shop before stripping it.
With all the notch's for future reference, next year, should I stick with 87 parts? since I am swapping the complete front suspension?

That center-link to crossmember gap (1/4") sounds right. That's one of the reasons you have to notch for clearance or section the entire crossmember to maintain the same gaps.

I would use as many parts as possible from the same year. My truck has 73-up spindles, brakes, b.joints & uses 71~72 tie-rod ends, sleeves, & center-link.