Birthday Present Time

[javadoc]

So, luckily I sold my other house, so I didn't have to sell the tomato. My birthday's coming up and the wife is 'getting' me a new exhaust for the truck. That, and I'm going to get the new suspension (2/4 drop, Belltech gear) at the same time. So.. two questions:

1) I found a shop that will do a manifold back, but I can't decide on the package. I'm going to have the exhaust exit in front of the rear tires, under the step. I don't want a 'straight pipe' loud, but I want it to make that diminutive 283V8 sound mean. Any suggestions on mufflers?

2) The truck currently has 235/75-16 Goodyear Wranglers. The main question is if I'll rub due to the drop or not. I'm not concerned about the fender inner or outers, but the height of the tires causing contact. If there's a chance of that, I'm thinking of going with something like 255/60-16s. Anyway, does anyone think the current tires will rub after a drop?

cheers!

[protrash64]

I dont know the hite(diameter) of your tires.........my truck has a 26.5" front tire and is lowered 5.5" and has a couple inches to go. 2" front drop is very mild.


My burb is lowered 3.5" in front w/ a 29" tire.......no problems.



If you are after a "classic" hot rod sound.......glasspacks all the way. I just heard my neighbor drive by in his 69 Impala w/ 307 and glasspacks. Kinda fuzzy sound.........

[wild one]

If you want a thumpin' " big " sound, use some 40 series flowmasters (two chamber type). A fella in my car club has them on one of his chevelles (1964 300 series wagon, TWO door with a 283) and he could fool anyone into thinking that it was a 350.

[javadoc]

Flowmasters. Check. Thanks man.

I did some measuring today and it looks like there's plenty of room for the (too tall) tires... for now. I'll 'have' to replace them when I find a good deal. They're 245/75-16s, with tons of room for wider rubber.

I also did some thinking and I'm going to go to 3" springs front, and go 5" in the rear, also after a bunch of measuring. The main question is if I need to get an adjustable track bar. It looks like, by my research, that at a 5" drop, I'd be on the cusp of needing it. Is there any risk in not doing it, and then deciding afterwards that I do need a non-stock bar?

Thanks for the advice guys.

[TimE]

Originally Posted by javadoc

Is there any risk in not doing it, and then deciding afterwards that I do need a non-stock bar?

No, there is no risk in going that route. You could change to an adjustable panhard at any point.
My truck has a 3"/4" drop on it with the stock panhard. I have 235/75/15's all the way around and have not had any problems at all. Ultimately, I plan to go with a wider tire and drop the rear one more inch. At that point I will also be putting on an adjustable panhard (so I can re-center the rearend to provide more tire clearance), but, until then, everything is working great. Good luck!

[leftcoast66]

Originally Posted by javadoc

Is there any risk in not doing it, and then deciding afterwards that I do need a non-stock bar?

Thanks for the advice guys.

Personally I'd hate to have the tire hit the fender on a big bump so I'd just go and do the panhard bar while your doing the suspension. You'll be under there so why not...

[javadoc]

[QUOTE=leftcoast66;2596085]Personally I'd hate to have the tire hit the fender on a big bump so I'd just go and do the panhard bar while your doing the suspension. You'll be under there so why not...[/QUOTE

Yeah, and it's only about another $100, right?

[Slmd92DIME]

You can cut the ends off of your factory panhard and weld a new piece of rod between them.... Then you would also need new bushings too after that heat.

[wild one]

Regarding the panhard rod you have a couple of options, I have seen an adjustable one for as little as $65.00 new OR if you or any one you know has access to a chopsaw, lathe, 24" to 30" length of 5/8" I.D. 1/8" wall DOM tube (cheap, scrap piece cost me $2.50 at my local metal shop - found it in the scrap bin), two 5/8" nuts to match the thread pitch of your tap and die (I used fine thread stuff) and a 5/8" tap and die you can do what I recently did to make my factory one adjustable.

After measuring the overall length of the panhard rod to use as a reference, cut the panhard rod in two at the middle of the bar, then chuck each half (one piece at a time of course) into the lathe and turn the outside diameter down from 11/16" to 5/8". You then cut of the excess leaving about 6" of rod from the end of the eyelet and use your die with oil to cut 5/8" threads into the original rod ends. Then use your tap to tap threads into the 5/8" I.D. tube running the tap in as far as you can. Once completed, install the nuts onto the factory rod ends then thread the rod ends into the tube.

I spent about 1 1/2 hours on mine and a total of $14.00 for the tube, nuts, and a cheap tap and die from my local Harbor Freight.