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Old 07-26-2008, 11:45 PM   #1
brawley
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wiring question-

Could someone help me with how to rewire the passenger side engine harness. I am using a HEI distributer so I tossed the coil. What do I do with the green wires -or can anyone tell me what color wires go to what? thanks
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Old 07-27-2008, 05:47 AM   #2
Frizzle Fry
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Re: wiring question-

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Originally Posted by brawley View Post
Could someone help me with how to rewire the passenger side engine harness. I am using a HEI distributor so I tossed the coil. What do I do with the green wires -or can anyone tell me what color wires go to what? thanks
Believe purple is starter and the braided tan one should be replaced with a 10awg wire for the HEI. You can get a new spade to crimp on for the firewall plug. The others I'll have to look up.
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Old 07-27-2008, 10:21 PM   #3
brawley
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Re: wiring question-

thanks for the response, I believe the blue is for oil gauge and green for temp gauge? the starter has a place for two wires the purple was one and the white also ,but im not sure exactly -now that i've changed over to the HEI dist. any help would be great. thanks
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Old 07-27-2008, 10:35 PM   #4
hewlett2002000
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Re: wiring question-

purple and blue went to solenoid, dark green goes to temp sensor, as for light green and brown, one goes to the coil, and im not sure about the other. the stock oil gauge wasent electric.
good luck...
John
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Old 07-28-2008, 08:21 AM   #5
jonzcustomshop
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Re: wiring question-

hewlett got it, light green is the coil, and the brown is a silver wire that acts as a ballast resistor.

just ditch the brown and light green and you should be good to go.
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Old 07-28-2008, 07:24 PM   #6
brawley
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Re: wiring question-

what wire goes to the distributer? the white? do I need to run that to the starter first? then come off that to dist. ? thanks
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Old 07-29-2008, 07:58 AM   #7
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Re: wiring question-

If you are running hei, none of those.. just run a wire from the batt terminal of the hei to the port on your fuse block that says ign switched(one that is hot when the ignition is on).
the dark green is the temp guage, and the other two should run back to the ign switch, one is on the hot terminal of the startre, and the other is for the start part of the solenoid.
the old coil wire which you will delete should be easy to spot, because it runs in that harness, but only runs from the starter to the coil, it does not go back into the cab. the silver wire, brown coated wire that performs the job of the ballast resistor should have been hooked to the same "run" terminal of the solenoid, just tape that one off, and don't hook it up.
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Old 07-29-2008, 08:07 AM   #8
billydonn
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Re: wiring question-

Quote:
Originally Posted by jonzcustomshop View Post
If you are running hei, none of those.. just run a wire from the batt terminal of the hei to the port on your fuse block that says ign switched(one that is hot when the ignition is on).
the dark green is the temp guage, and the other two should run back to the ign switch, one is on the hot terminal of the startre, and the other is for the start part of the solenoid.
the old coil wire which you will delete should be easy to spot, because it runs in that harness, but only runs from the starter to the coil, it does not go back into the cab. the silver wire, brown coated wire that performs the job of the ballast resistor should have been hooked to the same "run" terminal of the solenoid, just tape that one off, and don't hook it up.
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Old 07-31-2008, 12:13 AM   #9
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Re: wiring question-

Just a couple of things I'd like to add:

1) make sure you have a full 12V to your HEI with the key "on"

2) I usually run a 10 ga wire to the HEI. I think the OEM wires to the HEI were 12 ga, but I like the added insurance of the 10 ga wire.
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Old 07-12-2013, 10:56 PM   #10
jonzcustomshop
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Re: wiring question-

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Originally Posted by jonzcustomshop View Post
If you are running hei, none of those.. just run a wire from the batt terminal of the hei to the port on your fuse block that says ign switched(one that is hot when the ignition is on).
the dark green is the temp guage, and the other two should run back to the ign switch, one is on the hot terminal of the startre, and the other is for the start part of the solenoid.
the old coil wire which you will delete should be easy to spot, because it runs in that harness, but only runs from the starter to the coil, it does not go back into the cab. the silver wire, brown coated wire that performs the job of the ballast resistor should have been hooked to the same "run" terminal of the solenoid, just tape that one off, and don't hook it up.
...here I am looking up how to hook up a HE I, and I guess I already know how to do it!!

seems like on the one I did it was for a warning light dash, the one I am doing now is a gauge dash,,, so I am thinking there are only 3 wires in the firewall plug that I need??
should be dark green( temp sender) purple (start side of starter) , and black (starter to ignition switch??) the others would be coil and should be omitted??
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Old 07-13-2013, 12:20 AM   #11
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Re: wiring question-

Blue - original oil pressure sender for gauge cluster w/ lights
Purple - start side of starter solenoid(closest to engine block)
Light green - "cold" side of temp sender w/ warning light cluster-green light
Dark green - "hot" side of temp sender w/ warning light cluster-red light
cloth covered white( maybe brown now)- resistance wire from firewall plug to + on coil (this is the wire to replace with 10ga to BATT on HEI) no reason to run all the way to fuse panel.

There would have been a yellow wire originally from the RUN side of starter solenoid that would have spliced with the resistance wire at the coil- this can be eliminated now.

If you have a gauge cluster now- the oil pressure will be mechanical with a hard line from engine to gauge. You will use the dark green wire to the temp gauge. You can just tie up the blue and lt green wires out of the way.
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Old 07-13-2013, 11:37 AM   #12
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Re: wiring question-

This is an excellent question, with outstanding answers, for a very worthwhile upgrade. The information you can get on this site is outstanding.

This should be in an electrical "sticky".
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