tools needed to redo front end - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

ocbaud · 12-09-2002, 12:21 AM

okay, i need a complete list of what i'm gonna need exactly to add drop spindles and coils to my truck.

me and jon picked the 28th and 29th to get my truck lowered and it would be a lot easier if we knew exactly what we needed to get the old parts off and new parts on.

79BIG10 · 12-09-2002, 01:46 AM

Eric oher than reading Swervin's article I wouldn't know of anything else. But Im like you and needing a new front kit and will be reading on this as well. What suspension company did you go with?

low 84 · 12-09-2002, 02:43 AM

really you don't need any special tools. mabey a pickle fork to break loose the ball joints but that will usualy mess the boots up and you'll have to replace the ball joints, same goes for the tie rod ends but they aren't usualy on as tight, and they make a smaller pickle for for them, but again it could mess the boots up. mike madey a tool to break his loose that didn't mess them up i think he decribes it on his site, but i won't try to explain it b/c i didn't really understand. but really basic hand tools, floor jack should do it.

79Silv4x4 · 12-09-2002, 04:26 AM

Same as on CT--beer (Bud). Seriously though, basic hand and air tools, jack stands are all you need---if you need an extra hand just let me know.
Rob

bigd65 · 12-09-2002, 10:50 AM

you dont a fork to get the ball joints and tie rods loose. hit the part the shaft of the ball joint and tie rod with a hammer. if you have 2, one being a ball peen hammer it will work better and safer to prevent hitting anything else. hit on both sides till it pops loose. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE LOWER CONTROL ARM SUPPORTED FROM THE BOTTOM. IF THAT SPRING POPS OUT, IT COULD BE BAD AND EVEN CAUSE YOU INJURIES.

Big Paul · 12-09-2002, 10:57 AM

Eric, is all your doing just dropping the front end? You didn't have planned to install new bushings?

Just wondering what your plans are, you say your gonna redo the front end. Thought you were going with new bushings and front end pieces.....

low 84 · 12-09-2002, 01:36 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by bigd65
you dont a fork to get the ball joints and tie rods loose. hit the part the shaft of the ball joint and tie rod with a hammer. if you have 2, one being a ball peen hammer it will work better and safer to prevent hitting anything else. hit on both sides till it pops loose. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE LOWER CONTROL ARM SUPPORTED FROM THE BOTTOM. IF THAT SPRING POPS OUT, IT COULD BE BAD AND EVEN CAUSE YOU INJURIES.

i do mine the same way you described, but it dosen't always work. when you've got ball joints that have probly not been separated from the spindle in 20 years they don't always come loose this way. last time i broke mine loose only three came loose this way the other was stuck and had to be broken loose another way and the boot got screwed up so i got a new ball joint.

ocbaud · 12-09-2002, 07:10 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Big Paul
Eric, is all your doing just dropping the front end? You didn't have planned to install new bushings?

Just wondering what your plans are, you say your gonna redo the front end. Thought you were going with new bushings and front end pieces.....

i'll be taking all that off so its pretty much like the same thing as redoing front end

Big Paul · 12-09-2002, 08:47 PM

Won't he need a press if he's putting new bushings and taking old ones out of the a-arms?

**swervin ervin** · 12-10-2002, 01:12 PM

To remove the control arm bushings, the absolute best tool to use is a air chisel. I even took my arms to a front end shop and asked them what they used, guess what? It was a air chisel. It works like a charm.

Now to put them back in, I used my bench vise to press the new bushings in. You will need a spacer between the arm lips to keep from bending them in.

c10scotty · 12-10-2002, 08:57 PM

besides basic air and hand tools...you should be fine. but swervin is definately correct. an air chisel is your BEST FRIEND. if you dont have a QUALITY one, like a rodac...borrow, steal, buy, whatever you have to do... but get one!

love it loud · 12-10-2002, 11:47 PM

hehe, liquid wrench is great too.. (oxy-acetylene)

12-09-2002, 12:21 AM	#1
ocbaud Garage Queen Material Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: USA Posts: 4,129	tools needed to redo front end okay, i need a complete list of what i'm gonna need exactly to add drop spindles and coils to my truck. me and jon picked the 28th and 29th to get my truck lowered and it would be a lot easier if we knew exactly what we needed to get the old parts off and new parts on.

12-09-2002, 01:46 AM	#2
79BIG10 I'm back with 2nd truck! Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Texas Posts: 3,774	Eric oher than reading Swervin's article I wouldn't know of anything else. But Im like you and needing a new front kit and will be reading on this as well. What suspension company did you go with? __________________ 1979 Chevrolet Bonanza Big10 "Tootsie Roll" 1985 Chevrolet Silverado (wife's) Member of the Southern Bowties Club "Don't underestimate how sexy a fat man who drinks to excess can be." Homer Simpson

12-09-2002, 02:43 AM	#3
low 84 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 2,144	really you don't need any special tools. mabey a pickle fork to break loose the ball joints but that will usualy mess the boots up and you'll have to replace the ball joints, same goes for the tie rod ends but they aren't usualy on as tight, and they make a smaller pickle for for them, but again it could mess the boots up. mike madey a tool to break his loose that didn't mess them up i think he decribes it on his site, but i won't try to explain it b/c i didn't really understand. but really basic hand tools, floor jack should do it. __________________ '51 F100, backhalf with a narrowed 9 and coil overs, 18.5" mickeys, monte front clip, +400" sbc in the works '05 1500 Crew Cab RIP '84 swb 5/7 drop, solid cammed 408 w/ fully ported dart heads, th350 w/ 10 inch hughes, 12 bolt w/ 3.73 richmonds and a locker '80 swb 4x4 in progress: 7" lift, 350 th350/np205, d44 and 1.5" ORD tie rod, 14BFF w/discs , armored diff covers, 40" MTR's

12-09-2002, 04:26 AM	#4
79Silv4x4 Workaholic Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Katy, TX Posts: 1,589	Same as on CT--beer (Bud). Seriously though, basic hand and air tools, jack stands are all you need---if you need an extra hand just let me know. Rob __________________ 1979 K-10 Silverado (work in progress) 1991 V1500 Subruban 1999 Suburban LT 4x4 2006 Suburban LTZ (daily driver)

12-09-2002, 10:50 AM	#5
bigd65 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2000 Location: Clute, TX. Posts: 1,935	you dont a fork to get the ball joints and tie rods loose. hit the part the shaft of the ball joint and tie rod with a hammer. if you have 2, one being a ball peen hammer it will work better and safer to prevent hitting anything else. hit on both sides till it pops loose. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE LOWER CONTROL ARM SUPPORTED FROM THE BOTTOM. IF THAT SPRING POPS OUT, IT COULD BE BAD AND EVEN CAUSE YOU INJURIES. __________________ 2004 Silverado Crewcab 1972 Chevy Monte Carlo 2017 Chevy Tahoe

12-09-2002, 10:57 AM	#6
Big Paul Iamnotanofficerofthelaw Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Turlock, California Posts: 352	Eric, is all your doing just dropping the front end? You didn't have planned to install new bushings? Just wondering what your plans are, you say your gonna redo the front end. Thought you were going with new bushings and front end pieces..... __________________ ~Paul~ '96 C1500 Silverado- Vortec 5.0L/Exhaust/Stock '87 S-10 Ext Cab- 2.8L/700r4 KIA Caught fire 12/7/03

12-09-2002, 08:47 PM	#9
Big Paul Iamnotanofficerofthelaw Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Turlock, California Posts: 352	Won't he need a press if he's putting new bushings and taking old ones out of the a-arms? __________________ ~Paul~ '96 C1500 Silverado- Vortec 5.0L/Exhaust/Stock '87 S-10 Ext Cab- 2.8L/700r4 KIA Caught fire 12/7/03

12-10-2002, 01:12 PM	#10
swervin ervin You get what you pay for Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Cherryville, NC Posts: 4,798	To remove the control arm bushings, the absolute best tool to use is a air chisel. I even took my arms to a front end shop and asked them what they used, guess what? It was a air chisel. It works like a charm. Now to put them back in, I used my bench vise to press the new bushings in. You will need a spacer between the arm lips to keep from bending them in. __________________ Mike 1985 Chevy C-10

12-10-2002, 08:57 PM	#11
c10scotty ~THE SILVER BULLET~ Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: WYOMING Posts: 285	besides basic air and hand tools...you should be fine. but swervin is definately correct. an air chisel is your BEST FRIEND. if you dont have a QUALITY one, like a rodac...borrow, steal, buy, whatever you have to do... but get one! __________________ ~1980 c10 chevy scottsdale~ ~2.5/4 drop 305/th350c~

12-10-2002, 11:47 PM	#12
love it loud Calibration Engineer Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Windsor, Ontario, Canada Posts: 361	hehe, liquid wrench is great too.. (oxy-acetylene) __________________ CANADIAN CONNECTION

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