Help With Z'd Frame or Crossmember

[AfterThoughtVideo]

alright so I'm looking to get my long box to lay rocker, it's bagged already..now I dont have the time/space or really weld skills to do get it to lay rocker so I'm going to take it to my friends shop, but I have a few questions...want to get as much info before I drop it off at the shop

-Whats better Zing the frame 4'' or notching the exsiting crossmember 1.5''? and why?
-What problems or disadvantages or anything will occur with doing either of these and how will I fix or prevent these problems if there is any?
-How long will each take rough estimate? because he charges by the hour..
-Or whats an idea on a cost a shop would charge for this with the trans tunnel and everything...truck has a 305 motor in it, not sure if he'll have to do any modifying or raising to make sure the hood will shut

thanks!

[N2TRUX]

Before I answer your long list of questions, have you consider the Dropmember?

That would be my first choice.

[AfterThoughtVideo]

yeah..costs too much

[OrangeAnimal]

The frame z will cost alot too. Lots of stuff gets moved up. The truck will handle better with a raised crossmember or dropmember.

In order to z the frame correctly you will need to remove the engine and trans. The core support has to be removed and the steering shaft has to be redone. The crossmember for the trans has to be redone. There also maybe some firewall to cut. I am sure there are more things to do but that is what I can remember. I think that if a shop was to correctly z the frame it would cost quite a bit. I would estimate the time to do it at no less than 10 hours.


Honestly after looking at how my buddy did his I would never z a frame. Even if you do a killer job it just doesn't look right. I think cost wise you are better off with the dropmember. Even if you are alittle short now it's worth it to save and wait. Everyone I have ever talked to has loved the dropmember. I haven't heard the same about the frame z. I was over at my buddies last weekend and he is redoing the z on his due to cracks!

[isdeleon]

i agree with the dropmember being a better option, and you have 2 companys to choose from... but in the end it's what you like best, hopes it goes well ither way...

[AfterThoughtVideo]

Originally Posted by isdeleon

i agree with the dropmember being a better option, and you have 2 companys to choose from... but in the end it's what you like best, hopes it goes well ither way...

what are the two companys? I saw the porterbuilt one but they didnt have a price on their site..I've heard it's $1,200 but could be wrong..and does that include everything I'll need or is their additonal parts I need to buy? right now its bagged, notched in the rear and a 4 link..rear lays out pretty good it's just the front thats too high

how many hours does it take to install that? do you still need to cut a trans tunnell? also someone told me you'd still need to do a stock floor body drop to get it to lay rocker?

I've also heard the option other than the Z is notching your stock crossmember..how do you guys feel about that? any info would be great

thanks!

[isdeleon]

Originally Posted by AfterThoughtVideo

what are the two companys? I saw the porterbuilt one but they didnt have a price on their site..I've heard it's $1,200 but could be wrong..and does that include everything I'll need or is their additonal parts I need to buy? right now its bagged, notched in the rear and a 4 link..rear lays out pretty good it's just the front thats too high

if you only need a couple of inches in the front you could get dropped spindles (if you don't already have them). they are a cheap mod and pretty easy to install, and i think you can get them up to 2 1/2" lower than stock. you could also get those from several trustable companys like classicperform.com

if you already have spindles, then you could go with ***************** or porterbuilt crossmembers and they are both good options. i can't help you a lot because i haven't bought or installed one yet, but its in my to do list. here are several websites where you can find information about both crossmembers.

porterbuilt:
http://www.c10forum.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=69
http://www.c10forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=566
http://www.c10forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=611


*****************:
http://www.c10forum.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=17
http://www.c10forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=73
http://www.c10forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=569
http://www.c10forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=699

hope this helps...

[AfterThoughtVideo]

thanks for the info appreciate it!

anyone install one? picts please and info on how long it took and what all you needed to do..

also anyone try just notching the stock crossmember like 1.5'' or so?

[royo]

look here
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=302523

[AfterThoughtVideo]

not sure if mentioned this but I will be hauling a small camper 17' it's pretty light maybe less than 2,000 lbs..some people say I'll problems towing with a Z or notched crossmember...is that true? what if I went with the dropmember would I still have problems...the camper will only be towed 5 times a year to shows out of state anywhere from 2-9hrs away

[badblu97]

IMO, go with a crossmember. Towing could cause stress on the notched x member, or the z'd frame. I Z'd mine, but I am not towing anything, and the shop owed me money, or I woulda done a new crossmember. Its the way to go. either way the engine and trans must come out. The X members center your wheel and narrow the track if I remember correctly, and if you want to rocker the truck a bodydrop is in your future, traditional or stock floor. Keep in mind if you Z it, trans and driveshaft tunnel will need to be done, I think, and the same with either type of bodydrop. Gurus, correct me if I am wrong, thanx!

[OrangeAnimal]

Now knowing that you want to tow with the truck I would go with the dropmember. I just wouldn't trust the z'd frame for that duty.

[newagecustom]

It's incorrect that you have to remove the engine to do a frame Z. I have done quite a few without removing the engine or trans incl. a few toyotas and some c10s. You will have to make a new trans x member though.

[badblu97]

Originally Posted by newagecustom

It's incorrect that you have to remove the engine to do a frame Z. I have done quite a few without removing the engine or trans incl. a few toyotas and some c10s. You will have to make a new trans x member though.

Yep! My bad, Now that I think about it, the guy that did mine didnt pull the motor. Sorry bout that!

[AfterThoughtVideo]

any picts of a 73-87 with the dropmember? I want to see how much it lays out...maybe it'll be good enough for me and I wont need to do a body drop

can you just do a stock floor body drop without the dropmember or Z?

[lolife99]

Look at this bad a$$ '77 laying out on 22's. And it's all Dropmember.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=317834.

[N2TRUX]

Now that your here in this forum look around a bit. There are several threads discussing all your questions at length Follow the links that have been posted for a plethora of information.

[AfterThoughtVideo]

wouldnt it help/be easy to pull the motor?

[newagecustom]

It is a little easier but not neccessary. With the proper use of jackstands and a good floor jack you don't have to pull the engine/trans and could easily get it done in a weekend and drive it to work on monday.

[jmedero]

I think badblu97 was smoking crack or something... lol. J/K derek.. you know I'm just kidding. By the way derek I can see how you forgot that... after all you are crazy.

[Twisted Minis]

Frame Z starts at about $1500 in labor at my shop. That's roughly 24 hours of billed time. A crossmember costs less than that. But by the time you get the other parts and have it installed, it will be more. But the crossmember is going to be problem free with just about anyone installing it. A frame Z could go badly in the wrong hands. I've seen it happen, and I've fixed my fair share. So I would also vote for the crossmember. It's a well designed system that's proven to work.

Also, you only need about a 2" Z to lay out. 4" is pretty excessive.