8 lug convert or leave it?

[exmonkeypunk]

I have a lug hubs on my 72' longbed. I am wanting to start lowering it in the near future. I cannot decide if there's any reason i should keep it 8 lug?
It might be kind of cool to keep it even though it is a huge hassle just pulling a wheel. It seems my options are very limited though to what kind of wheel i can run in that pattern. Swapping over to a 5 or 6 lug pattern has the advantage with wheel choices. I dunno what's some opinions?

[N2TRUX]

What are you going to use the truck for? If your using it for hauling loads of any kind, the larger hubs, brakes etc that come with an 8 lug set up are worth keeping.

If not, then covert. The wheel selection is a 1000 times better.

[Tony@AirRideTech]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

What are you going to use the truck for? If your using it for hauling loads of any kind, the larger hubs, brakes etc that come with an 8 lug set up are worth keeping.

If not, then covert. The wheel selection is a 1000 times better.

X10

[Skirkpat]

Find a 1971-72 gmc half ton and rob the suspension, it should already have the leafs, I know that 73+ has different width leafs springs, so it might not be a bolt in, but will be close

[six5]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

What are you going to use the truck for? If your using it for hauling loads of any kind, the larger hubs, brakes etc that come with an 8 lug set up are worth keeping.

If not, then covert. The wheel selection is a 1000 times better.

Since the Diesel truck craze they make a lot of 8 lug rims now.




I picked up this KMC 20" rim for free. But the backspacing was wrong. So I purchased the KMC Revolvers in all black....

[exmonkeypunk]

i have no intent of hauling much of anything with it, especially anything with weight to it.
Converting over to a 5 lug for the front seems pretty simple, but what about the rear? there's not just axle tubes i can slide in is there?

[N2TRUX]

I have never done an 8 lug conversion so I am not sure if axles are available.

My feeling are that it would probably be cheaper to buy a complete 5 or 6 rear end and slide it under.

[Shane]

later model (73-87) rear ends are fairly inexpensive and plentiful in the salvage yards ... just have a set of mounts welded on for the trailing arms and you're in business.

[exmonkeypunk]

There's a 70 or 71 i think c10 in a yard here in town. I've never messed around with pulling one before... Are they bolted or welded? Otherwise, is there any certain rear i should be looking for in particular? Sounds like it's gonna be a big deal. Will i have to change anything with the u joints and driveshaft? I imagine if i'm swapping out a rear, i might as well wait and notch the frame while i have it apart.

[jbristo67]

Originally Posted by exmonkeypunk

Sounds like it's gonna be a big deal.

Its really not. If you have a trailing arm truck its only 2 u bolts and some brake lines and cables and the other rear slides right in. I did mine in about 20 min

[exmonkeypunk]

I'm looking to build up the motor a bit, the trans, suspension, tighten everything up. basically just attempt to make the truck all around as tough as possible. Sort of my "go to" ride for whatever i need it for. I don't ever haul anything of weight. No more than a couple hundred pounds absolute tops. Just car parts mostly.
I was really wanting to go the air bag route, but i can't see it being affordable for me at all in the next couple of years, so i figured for now, i'd try to just fill some of that wheel gap and then some. From what i've been reading, 5x5 sounds pretty popular to go with. I believe the c10 in town was a 6 bolt, but i might be wrong. It might not even be there anymore.

[protrash64]

Where is Cherry Valley? Im from Peoria....just curious. I dont know crap about those 8-luggers except I wouldnt want to get a flat.

[ERASER5]

What kind of rear end do you have now? If it is an Eaton, the drive shaft will be OK with the use of a conversion U-Joint. If you have a Dana, get the rear part of the drive shaft with the 1/2 ton rear.

The Eaton is built as the third member much like Ford 9 inch. A Dana 60 will have a "60" on top of the pig and a small "60" on the lower rear right side.

A 70 rear will be 6 lug, a 71 will be 5 lug.

[Garage Freak]

If you are going to a 5 lug setup, I'd go with a 12 bolt rearend and continue with the leaf springs rather than messing with the trailing arms. Just one less thing to change.

[exmonkeypunk]

Cherry Valley is next to Rockford, so it's about 45 minutes from peoria.

I'm out with some weird sort of flu i assume anyways, so i'm not able to run outside and look at numbers. My girlfriend thinks it's weird that i'm on the truck forum getting information on rear axles when i'm sick, she'd prolly flip if i went outside and started crawling under the truck. lol.

[exmonkeypunk]

Okay, I have a 10 bolt axle on my truck..... I drove out to the junk yard and found that someone beat me to the axle on the c10. So, i'm struck there. Really, if i can lower the front and back how i want and keep the 8 lug, as long as it isn't going to require any strenuous effort, i'll just do that. I need to run new lines anyway, but can't afford a disc conversion out back.
I'm thinking 2.5" drop spindles and 2 or 3 inch springs for the front,
Then 2 inch shackles and 3 4 or 5 inch lowering leafs.
Could i use blocks with my setup?

[ERASER5]

You do not have a 10 bolt. There may be 10 bolts holding the rear cover on, but that does not define a "10 bolt." A "10 bolt" is a GM 10 bolt 5 lug 1/2 ton axle and it is the weak sister to the GM 12 bolt. No 3/4 ton axle is a "10 bolt."

The Dana 60 has 10 bolt on the rear cover but is far, far stronger than a little 10 bolt. If you have a Dana 60, it has resale value. The rear drive shaft should stay with the Dana as it is the correct length.

I do not recall how many bolts ore on the Eaton rear inspection cover, but the front of an Eaton is bolted on also like a ford 9" diff. The drums may have resale value if they are in good shape. Same goes for the third member.

See my previous post about drive shaft lengths.

[exmonkeypunk]

Originally Posted by ERASER5

You do not have a 10 bolt. There may be 10 bolts holding the rear cover on, but that does not define a "10 bolt." A "10 bolt" is a GM 10 bolt 5 lug 1/2 ton axle and it is the weak sister to the GM 12 bolt. No 3/4 ton axle is a "10 bolt."

The Dana 60 has 10 bolt on the rear cover but is far, far stronger than a little 10 bolt. If you have a Dana 60, it has resale value. The rear drive shaft should stay with the Dana as it is the correct length.

I do not recall how many bolts ore on the Eaton rear inspection cover, but the front of an Eaton is bolted on also like a ford 9" diff. The drums may have resale value if they are in good shape. Same goes for the third member.

See my previous post about drive shaft lengths.

My mistake. I'm new to rear axle identification. How do i know what i have?
I figured the bulky ends would be a dead giveaway.

[exmonkeypunk]

I looked around for a 60 stamped anywhere on it. No dice there. i found one set of numbers on the passenger rear of the pumpkin.
C-30255
The drive shaft bolts up with the bolts facing the rear, so that's different for me.

[exmonkeypunk]

Dana 60 is what i'm gonna say. I matched the numbers i have with another guys 60 and the nose is the same as is the strap mounts at the u joint.

[ERASER5]

Dana 60s are a very strong rear end. If it were mine, I would keep it 8 lug, but I tend to work my trucks.

[exmonkeypunk]

well, being that it's a dana, i'd like to keep it. No need in swapping it if it's good. How about changing the gears to something a bit smaller?
I assume it's built to tow and haul, i have no use for that. I plan on beefing up the motor a bit and rebuilding the trans and adding a shift kit.

[joe231]

check this out
AXLE ID LINKY

[LILRED66]

GM 8 lug wheel choices are virtually unlimited. The old myth of being limited on wheel choices for a GM 8 lug is no longer true. I suggest being unique and stay with the factory equipment, including the stock 8 lug hubs. Save the money you would spend on converting to 5 lug or 6 lug and spend it on wheels.

I put a take-off set from my '98 Chevy K2500 Silverado on my '66 Chevy C20 Custom Camper lwb fleetside, with no clearance issues.

Good luck with your project and post some pictures of your truck with the new wheels.

[exmonkeypunk]

Great link joe. Instantly recognized the Dana 60 cover. Exactly what i have.

Lilred, I was ill informed on wheel selection for 8 lug apparently.
I asked a guy at work about using 8 lug wheels off newer GMC or Chevy trucks and he said they were different and couldn't do it. I bought a set of old F#%^ 8 lug wheels i thought would look good on the truck and he said i couldn't use them because the bolts would break, something about how the wheel is tapered or not tapered differently and all the stress would be on the bolts.

Is any of this even remotely true? Or have i just assumed this guy knew his stuff? I mean, the guy does know his stuff with repairing and diagnosing cars, but i've been wondering about all the truck crap he's been feeding me.