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05-01-2009, 04:56 AM | #1 |
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Felton Pennsylvania
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327 or 350?
I don't know much about the 327 motors, but would like to know how they can compare with the 350's. Can some one give me some info on the 350 vs 327 dillema i'm having?
It is the wifes truck, looking for best bang for the buck performance wise. (Still pump gas but fast) Thanks Last edited by FastGM500; 05-01-2009 at 04:57 AM. |
05-01-2009, 09:37 AM | #2 |
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Location: PA
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Re: 327 or 350?
The cylinders of a 350 and 327 are the same size. The 327 has a shorter stroke, so it likes to rev higher.
If you have a large journal 327, you could put a 350 crank in it, and make it a 350, or get a stroker crank, and make it a 383. If you have a small journal 327, you could put a 283 crank in it, and make a 302. I would say that unless you want to build something that will rev to the moon, the 350/383 would be a better choice. |
05-01-2009, 10:33 AM | #3 |
Jason
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Wetumpka, AL
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Re: 327 or 350?
I would also go with the 350 because it would produce much better torque.
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05-01-2009, 11:50 AM | #4 |
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Re: 327 or 350?
Amen to that. Torque is king. There are FEW reasons to build any motor 'less' than they can be, and EVERY reason to build one as LARGE as it can be. Some of the earlier (68-70ish) 327 blocks will have issue with the 3.75" stroke of a 383, but if it's a 69 or later large journal block, it will take clearancing for the 3.75" stroke no problem.
Look at it this way, if your buying a crank, rods and pistons anyways, parts cost no more to buy 383 over 350. Pistons, crank, it's within a few dollars for either choice. IF you can russle up a used 350 crank (you'll undoubetedly still need new pistons for the fresh bore) "I' (reads just personal optinon here) would still pass and go 383. For around $2500 - $3500 you can build a VERY sweet fuel efficient, and very powerfull motor. Here's just one recepie Bore, Hone, deck, rough clearance for 3.75" stroke, and true up block about $500 New cast steel crank, new 'stroker' rods and10-12cc dished pistons,, packages around the net run anywhere fron $800 to $1200 [http://store.summitracing.com/partde...&autoview=sku] here's a Eagle kit from Summit for $825[/url] Crank, rods, pistons, rings, bearings, internally balanced (but will need to be checked, don't trust it for out of the box size and balance) Set of RHS vortec 12410 iron heads, 64cc with the 12cc dish of the above kit, depending on deck will put you in the 9.8 to 10.5 compression range depending on deck height. Which is why you would want to keep deck milling to a minimum if possible. Heads will run right at $540 for the pair, but will require the vortec intake (there is a reason for this IMO) The Eddy RPM airgap vortec intake is pricy, but is part of the 'combination'. You 'can use another vortec head and angle drill a standard intake and make things work,, close enough. But the post shape and patern of the Vortec specific intake will make for much better low speed port volocity is the work I've heard from many more experienced engine designers / builders. The Vortec specific RPM airgap intake get's a big bite of the budget (comparitively) at $250 Last is cam. I don't build ANYTHING any more that it doesn't get a roller cam. I'm not going to debate the oil quality and additives available, but simply from a efficiency standpoint the roller only makes sense. Yes it adds around $800 to the price, BUT in efficiency, reliability, and overall power pleasure, it pays for it's self many times over. A package in the 235-240° @ 0.050" range with .550" lift would rub around $800, (cam, hydraulic roller lifters, and short pushords necessary for the retro-fit hydraulic rollers). Add $250ish for a good set of roller rockers (get some Cranes while you can still get them). Now were at a total here of $3100, and all you need is a couple of hundred for a complete gasket set (good FelPro's ) and a set of centerbolt rocker covers (anywhere fron $50 to $200 depending on what you want / like / can afford. You could bank on an HONEST 350-370 'as installed' HP (equals 475+hp as advertised in the car rags LOL) and efficiency that could EASILY get 15-18MPG+ depending on th erest of the package. So budget and sanity be your guide.... Spend some now, put a BIG smile on the wifes face and... well you know what that means
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05-01-2009, 11:58 PM | #5 |
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Felton Pennsylvania
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Re: 327 or 350?
I tend to want to go overboard on a lot of things. I have a 500 Caddy 76cc heads and two 350's right now. I was going to trade a $500 boat for the 327 small journal. She told me today that she wants the 327 because that's what came with it originally
So I am guessing that a powerglide will soon follow. If I had my way I would put the Caddy in it but you all know how it goes. I guess I could just do the best I can with it. Found a kit on summit that looks promising, probably going to go 30 over. http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku |
05-02-2009, 05:26 AM | #6 |
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Location: travis afb
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Re: 327 or 350?
i hve 3 stock 350 cranks,rods, pistons if you change your mind.
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05-02-2009, 01:33 PM | #7 |
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Re: 327 or 350?
These probablywill not work in a small journal 327 block .
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