budget build.. frame layin 83.. quest?

[bigbadjohn84]

I have a '83 SWB. I have researched numerous places. everyone has the same answer, but they don't have the $2,500.00 to give me for the "drop member". I have been reading on "pancaking" the front crossmember 1 and 1/4". I was thinking about a pancaked front crossmember and doing a 2 in Z. I want to be able to use a factory high hump carpet for my interior in the end. I want to retain a stock appearance to the floor. I have a high hump ready to go. anyone have any input on this. I am planning on cutting the Z at an angle so that when it moves up it will move the front suspension forward a little to center the wheels when laid out. I just want to lay out on some 20's and possibly retain factory air.. anyone did this combo? any pointers would be great.. thanks! reason why this is a budget build, is because as it stands, I have $30.00 in the whole thing at the moment lol! just a toy

[SCOTI]

I did a crossmember notch on my 68. I cut it for 1 3/8" & when I went to trim the c.members front lip/u-bolts for steering clearance, I got a big suprise. I had to grind off a BUNCH.... so much so that I opted to add .250" spacers for a final notch of 1 1/8" (which required less material ground off). I had read where some guys did 1.5" notches w/no problems. I figured the 1 3/8" notch would allow for a little extra clearance but it just wouldn't work w/my combination of parts.

That being said, a 1" notch w/the 2" 'Z' sounds like your best bet. It should get your rails on the ground w/the right dropped spindles & tire height. Trans tunnel clearance is dependant on the size of your trans (since some trannys are physically larger) but others have done a 'Z' w/a mildly re-worked tunnel that wasn't noticeable from the interior. The bigger trannys (th400/4l80e) will require more effort on the tunnel but should still go un-noticed.

Be sure & figure in your final tire height when planning. It's easier to do a 2.5 or 3" Z while your doing things vs. trying to figure out how to get that last .500" lower after you just completed the 2" 'Z'.
Dont forget . . ... post pics of your build!!

[daverod]

I just did my front cross member cost like $80 and 2 1/2 hrs. Lowered it 1 1/2"

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by daverod

I just did my front cross member cost like $80 and 2 1/2 hrs. Lowered it 1 1/2"

Any problems w/the steering clearance (drag-link & tie-rod end vs. c.member & u-bolts) as it swings through its arc of travel?

[daverod]

I'm sure I might have to do somthing. I don't have my dropped spindles yet so I don't know. I never looked at the other threads (the ones I got the idea from) to see what they ran into. Somthing to read this afternoon. The other trucks were different years then mine. It might be a good thing I have extra cross member.

[bigbadjohn84]

the biggest tire I would probably run in the front would be no more than 28". I may stagger the height a little from front to rear, but nothing drastic. I will prolly run my factory steelies till I get everything tied in, paint and body, etc, there is virtually NO body work to be done. the truck is absolutley straight as far as I can see. I'll be block sanding and priming a while though to get it xtra smooth. the engine and trans combo will prolly stay as is, factory 700R4 and 305 that was all rebuilt professionally a few years back, cranks and runs beautiful. I plan on using a 3" drop spindle, coupled with bags of course. what issues does it cause with steering combo? would I be better off notching and putting in a rack and pinion like from a mustang that I see so many of these "kits" do? how do you find adjusters to go from the mustang ends to the Chevy spindle?

[jmedero]

the best advice I got when I started my Nova project several years ago was to stop, figure out EXACTLY what I wanted to do. I had gotten 2 engines, 2 hoods and alot of wasted time and $$. Do your research and figure out what you want to do. By my count a chopped xmember, bags, spinles, and valves is going to run me about $1,000 to get some quality stuff. Then you still have to do the back. If your not sure about bags and the cost then save that $$ for the paint and engine swap. Just plan so you dont waste $$ like I have in the past. A good plan is worth its weight in GOLD!!

[bigbadjohn84]

yea. I've learned A LOT from past projects... geeze.. I've got over 5K in my 89 motor and trans alone.. I haven't even started body work and paint on it. it will be done first. I am just in the plotting stages of the 83 build. gonna be a while. I am thankful for all the input and ideas I can get though