push rod install

[fdbdw]

Here is the proces I was thinking about using to put in new push rods and sort of use the while running method I used to adjust the valves, will this work ok, 71 350sb
starting on one side loosen the lifter nut enough to rotate it out of the way and pull the push rod out and put in a new one, then rotate the lifter back over the push rod and tighten it down the same amount of turns I turned it out, then do this all the way down one side without turning over the motor, once Ive done one complete side, starting it up and use the (while running method) to adjust all the lifters on that side, close it up and do the other side the same way, anyone see any problems with doing it this way

[prostreetC-10]

No No and No! Could it possibly work. I guess but first of all you are assuming that they were adjusted right in the first place and you really can't be sure. Problem is that the valve train has to be adjusted at zero lash plus 1/2 turn (assuming hydro flat tappet cam). To get zero lash you have to have the lifter on the base circle of the camshaft. This requires rotating and adjusting one at a time. I'm not going to take the time to explain because there are tons of threads on adjusting valves. Just do a search. For the small time you might save....just take and extra 15 min and do it the right way.

There is also no reason to adjust while running if you do it right when it's not running. You really have to have a modified valve cover to do it while running or oil is going to go EVERYWHERE!

[fdbdw]

I thought you could find zero lash while it was running by loosening till it clatters and tighten just until it stops and thats your zero lash, Ive also used a old cut valve cover and oil clips to keep oil mess down

[prostreetC-10]

That technique has been around forever and I guess is somewhat accurate. I might do it on a piece of farm equipment, but I thought you said you had to replace pushrods? Is this on something you don't really care about? By the way.....why are you replacing the pushrods? A lot of guys do that trick but I've never done it and then checked agains the right way to see how accurate or how far off it is. Is ther a reason to don't want to do it the other way?

[prostreetC-10]

By the way......when you tighten the rocker nuts until the noise goes away.......you have "quiet rockers". lol

[BAGNDRAGIT]

question, were you wanting to change the pushrods with the motor running??

[prostreetC-10]

lol....I don't think that is what he meant.

If that is what you want to do......PLEASE VIDEO AND POST!!!!



Just Kidding. Don't do that cuz you will be in the ER with a rod in your neck!

[vectorit]

I had to read your post about 4 or 5 times there...

I "think" I know what you are trying to get at.

Here is my .02 on this.

First off, why are you wanting to change just the push rods?
You can change them, just as long as you match the new ones with the old ones to make sure you have the right ones (length, and width). If they are bent or damaged, then you have other problems to worry about than just push rods.

Now the "Running method" you refer to. I personally have done this, and it is VERY messy and dangerous. Since oil will go every where, and will collect enough on the hot exhaust to possibly start a fire. So have an extinguisher close to you!
The way I did it (don't ask me why I did this, but it seemed like a good idea at the time) was to take an old valve cover, then cut it in half length wise then install it. This will prevent most of the oil from runnning out and onto your exhaust. It will pool up in the lower corner of the head by the firewall.
The next thing I did was attach rocker clips to the rocker arms, these are to prevent the oil from squirting up and over the head and onto you.

I got the clips from some speed shop many years ago, and have no idea if they are still even made? Just the fact that those were available, said that people do in fact adjust rockers this way I guess. If you don't have these, then plan on a major mess.

Personally I would never do this again. Huge mess for what it's worth.

On top of all this, you will burn your hands with the hot oil.

I suggest you rethink this some more.

[fdbdw]

to answer some of the questions,

the reason I was thinking about changing them is that a buddy gave me a new set that mach what I have and I was thinking about pulling the old ones out and checking the condition and figured I might as well put the new ones in while I was at it
The main reson I want to do the while running method to adjust, is cause Ive done it a few times and I am comfortable doing it that way and seems to work fine, and I also use oil clips and a cut valve cover which make very little mess
Although I can find alot of threads on adjusting them I couldnt find any informative threads on installing new push rods so that was the reason for the post.
And no I was not planning on doing the install while the motor was running(just the adjustment), but if I did I would definitly video it for ya

[Sinister]

If your old push rods are good I'd just leave it alone. Your just making work for yourself.

[prostreetC-10]

If we are talking a basically stock motor, your push rods are more than likely fine. You can change many lifter sets to pushrods. If you start getting into engine mods or radical cams...that's another story.

[fdbdw]

when you say you can change many lifter sets to pushrods do you mean you can change lifters and keep the old pushrods, and ya its not modified to much just the basics,
eps manifold, 1406 carb, hedman hed, hei, gonna do a cam some day. So maybe I will just leave the push rods alone, I do appreciate all the input

[prostreetC-10]

Let me first start off by saying that the info you get on this forum or any forum is general info and we do the best we can with the info that is provided in the post.

With that said, what is most important is to inspect any part you are thinking about reusing. I always like to take pushrods and roll them on a VERY flat surface to make sure they are round. Inspect the ball ends too to make sure there is no damage. they should be nice and shiny and round. If you see one that has a dent, kink or is just not straight....it's going to fail. Fortunately....the last couple of big blocks I have built came with 7/16th rods which are pretty big. I think 3/8th are stock.

I would venture to say that most guys don't replace there pushrods on a basic cam swap. As stated in another post about rocker arms, when you start going with high lift cams, full roller rockers and longer rocker studs, that's when you need to use a pushrod length checker and go with longer, stronger rods so your valve train geometry is correct.

With what you have described, you will be fine with the stock rods as long as they are straight.

[BAGNDRAGIT]

Prostreet, i think you nailed it....im not gonna lie, a vid of a pushrod install while running would be rather interesting to say the least!!!!

[fdbdw]

Cool, thanks

[70gmcjimmy]

sorry