How low will it go with this setup?

[kev2809]

I'm getting my bag parts together and in the next couple of weeks will start bagging my 67 suburban. The setup i plan on running is dominator 2600's with the suicidedoors upper bag plate and lower cups (yes i got it on sale - thanks sd!). Will be using 2.5" drop spindles. For the rear i plan on a monster notch, and dominator 2600 bags on the trailing arms with 2" drop blocks. Does anyone have pics of this setup? I mainly would like to see suburbans but if your truck has the same setup then i wouldnt mind seeing that too, it would still give me an idea. I know a lot of people have run this setup, but i just want to see some pics of how low it will go. Any help greatly appreciated!

[N2TRUX]

If you pull your inner fenders it will go all the way down to the crossmember sitting on the ground...

[PBFAB.COM]

The rear drop will be limited by the trailing arm to frame clearance. The arms will contact the bottom of the frame well before laying out. Depending on your tire size you could get the frame within a few inches from the ground when deflated and using the lowering block.

[SCOTI]

With a 2" block & 2500/6.5" dbl convoluted bag in the OE location (between trailing arm & OE frame holes), the frame just behind where the rear cab mount would be located on a swb frame will be approx 5" off the deck w/a ~29" tall tire when air'd out.

[kev2809]

is it an even layout? or will the drop get lower than the front than the back? and what's the biggest drop block you can run? I seen the how to txfirefighter did and that's probably what I will end up doing...

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by kev2809

is it an even layout? or will the drop get lower than the front than the back? and what's the biggest drop block you can run? I seen the how to txfirefighter did and that's probably what I will end up doing...

Lower in the front.
Some guys will run blocks taller than 2" (3"). But, they're not 'safe' w/a smaller diameter wheel. If you're opting for big inch wheels, the taller blocks won't have scrub line issues.

[project 67 sub]

a 3" block, thats what i have.

[kev2809]

did u make it or buy it somewhere?

[kev2809]

well, eventually I will 22's, maybe 20's. but for a while it will be the stock 15's. so 3 is the max?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by kev2809

well, eventually I will 22's, maybe 20's. but for a while it will be the stock 15's. so 3 is the max?

IMO, 3" blocks are too much vs. the risk. I would hate for someone to get a flat & hang up on a road abnormality (pot-hole, dip, irregular raised substrate/asphalt, etc...) potentially messing up a decent truck. That being said, they're do-able as guys from this site have proven.

[kev2809]

ah alright. I might 2" to start off then once I get the wheels ill switch to 3". so I understand these front cups can be cut down to 1.5" tall? is this the max also? what would happen if it was 1" tall toal? just curious...thanks

[N2TRUX]

Cutting your cups will only allow you to run more pressure in your bag, unless you do something with your crossmember.

In the pic posted above my A-arms are laying on the ground. That's with a 3" spindle, and standard height cups. I removed the fenders liners and was able to lay A-arms with a 27" tall tire. The crossmember has to go up before the frame can come down.

[kev2809]

alright, i see how it works now. well thats one less thing i have to do then i guess lol. the cups just "set" in lca right? they dont weld in or anything?

[N2TRUX]

Right, the cups "float" in the lower spring pockets. The bags are bolted to plates then attached up top.

[kev2809]

nice...does anyone have any pics out back? just to give me a general idea? and n2trux, what year is the truck in the pic u posted?

[N2TRUX]

It's an 82 Blazer. The crossmember/A-arm location is the same as your 67 suburban, but the firewall clearence may vary.

[kev2809]

well im trying to finish up the kit here pretty soon, and need to know what else i need to get. i know i still need the spindles and drop blocks and notch, but what about - how much airline and what size should i get (i was thinking 1/2"?). Should i get the fitting pack from suicidedoors (they sell it for 120), or should i piece together my own kit from a local store? How many guages do i need, and what airline for it? How many ports on my tank do i need, and what size ports(i want a 5 gallon tank)? How many switches do i need? I want to do f,b,s,s, front all aired out, back all aired out, and maybe each corner? And also, how do i know what pressure switch to get, what water traps, relays, filters, etc?

[kev2809]

anyone?

[lolife99]

Give Jason a call at Suicidedoors. He can fix you up.

[kev2809]

hey guys...im back. rather than starting another suspension thread, ill post my question in here. i bagged the front already, with the exception of the drop spindles and recessed cups in lca's. but im doing the rear and it is 20 times harder than the front. i had a haaaaaaaaard time getting my holes drilled, especially for the fitting.

my question is: has anyone run into this problem? the bolt on the left has 0 room to put a socket or a wrench on it. its way to close against the frame. did i not drill them right?



second question - is there any way to remove the spring plate thats riveted on and mount the bag straight directly to the frame? im having complete hell getting my hands in there to do anything at all. is this just how it is or am i not doing something right?

i thought the rear would be much easier but its getting ridiculous.

[Twisted78SS]

** second question - is there any way to remove the spring plate thats riveted on and mount the bag straight directly to the frame? im having complete hell getting my hands in there to do anything at all. is this just how it is or am i not doing something right? **

I think Frizzle Fry did this on one of his rides, but I am not sure where or how much he cut off/out..

[lolife99]

Man,... those bolts are really long.
I turned my bags where the bolts would be "front to back" with the frame.
Take your bag off and make a good template of the mounting holes and the airbag fitting hole.
I also used studs in the bag with nuts on top. It's a pretty tight fit getting your hand in there.
Make the fitting hole big enough to drop the bag out with the fitting installed. That way you can attach the air line first,... and then raise the bag into position.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by lolife99

Man,... those bolts are really long.
I turned my bags where the bolts would be "front to back" with the frame.
Take your bag off and make a good template of the mounting holes and the airbag fitting hole.
I also used studs in the bag with nuts on top. It's a pretty tight fit getting your hand in there.
Make the fitting hole big enough to drop the bag out with the fitting installed. That way you can attach the air line first,... and then raise the bag into position.

x2. You should have 'clocked' the bag so the holes weren't so close to the inside/outside edges of the frame.

[kev2809]

hmm...if i can find the right sh*t to drill out these holes i wouldnt mind turning it and redoing it. the bag bolt holes are very easy, its the fitting hole that is getting me. i bought a step bit from harbor freight and it just rounded out. i looked at the ones from hope depot and they didnt have one big enough, and they were like 50 bucks lol. so i bought a 1 3/8 hole bit and im hoping it works out. i couldnt use it on my existing hole because it would just break the bit off of the hole bit (i know because i tried lol).

so you guys think i should just turn the bag so the bolts are front to back rather than side to side?

oh, and on the length of the bolts - i asked in a thread and once told 2" should work, and they do seem a little too long. i may get 1 1/2" ones..heres the thread

[lolife99]

Re-clock the bag or you'll never get a wrench on it. I drilled my bag fitting hole with a step bit that went up to 1 inch. You can also enlarge it with a die grinder with a metal cutting "burr" bit.