Questions: random stuff.

[AnlaufJohn]

As the Thanksgiving Weekend approaches, I am making a list of items to fix or replace. I have some items that my local sources of Chevy information don't know or haven't had the question raised before.

First up-VIN number plate. My 66 has its VIN on the upper cab/door area. After the words 'Chevrolet,' there are two (2) "D" stamped. Looks like this:
CHEVROLET DD

What do the double d's indicate?

How much effort should be required to pull the choke cable? I've looked at the routing of it under the dash, and it looks like a lazy 'S' to the firewall. After it passes to the engine compartment, it dives down to go under the air cleaner and then up to the choke plate. The first 2/3 is easy, but to get it to engage the high idle arm, the last effort is close to 25 lbs of pull. Is that normal? Is there a good, better, best rating of lubrication products?

Last is the heater switch. I have the Thrift Air version, where the air control cable is part of the electrical 2 speed blower switch. My low speed is not working anymore, and the electrics are not available separately from the cable. The replacement cable/switch has instructions that indicate moving the flagged screw tab adjusts the cable length. Huh? Sounds like adjusting the brake cables on a bicycle. Still baffles me.

Other than that, we had our first cold night last night: 33F. Nice day to work on the Chevy.

Thank you,
John in Springfield, Oregon

[AnlaufJohn]

Just thought of another item for the Chevy gurus to ponder.
The information plate on the lower left kick panel shows the GVW and net hp. ratings for the various engines.
The last 2 or 3 lines of mine are unreadable, as rust and scratches have attacked the inked portions.
Something is "STD"
"519" is stamped on the second line, to the far right
WB is clear, 127 inches, but what's farther to the right? Mine is blank, so should I care? Curious, yep.

[LILRED66]

Originally Posted by AnlaufJohn

Just thought of another item for the Chevy gurus to ponder.
The information plate on the lower left kick panel shows the GVW and net hp. ratings for the various engines.
The last 2 or 3 lines of mine are unreadable, as rust and scratches have attacked the inked portions.
Something is "STD"
"519" is stamped on the second line, to the far right
WB is clear, 127 inches, but what's farther to the right? Mine is blank, so should I care? Curious, yep.

The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) trim tag will have the trim package information, the paint code information and the gross vehicle weight information, along with the Engine cubic inches and h.p. ratings.

Your GVW tag has STD for standard trim package, versus Custom Comfort/Custom Cab trim. Your paint code is #519...according to www.autocolorlibrary.com your truck was bright yellow. Here is a link:

http://www.tcpglobal.com/autocolorli...truck-pg01.jpg

[LILRED66]

The choke cable, when working properly, requires very little pull. Try removing the entire choke cable assembly, soaking it in a dish of degreaser, like Simple Green, followed by a good rinse and then a good soaking in some 30 weight, in a small pan, tray or dish. After this process, put one end of the cable in the choke cable clamp on your carb and work the pull knob back and forth several times.

For a good lubricant on moving parts, I use dielectric grease. It is clear, almost like a gel and stays where you put it. Also, a good lithium grease or 3-in-1 oil is a good lubricator for choke and heater cables.

[DPowers]

What do the double d's indicate?

Double D's are good

Something is "STD"

STD's not so good

[63 & 64 Bowties]

Originally Posted by DPowers

What do the double d's indicate?

Double D's are good

Something is "STD"

STD's not so good

[LILRED66]

AnlaufJohn:

Post a picture of your VIN tag or post the VIN itself. This may help with your questions.

[markeb01]

Originally Posted by AnlaufJohn

Last is the heater switch. I have the Thrift Air version, where the air control cable is part of the electrical 2 speed blower switch. My low speed is not working anymore, and the electrics are not available separately from the cable. The replacement cable/switch has instructions that indicate moving the flagged screw tab adjusts the cable length. Huh? Sounds like adjusting the brake cables on a bicycle. Still baffles me.

If the low speed on the heater fan is not working, it's almost certainly the resistor has burned out, or the connector has been pulled loose from the terminal spades. It's located on the back of the ducting after the fan. On multi speed systems there's more than one resistance wire to drop the speed further. Once one of the resistor wires burns out, all you have is the direct circuit which runs the motor at full speed. Here's a link to what it looks like:

http://www.classicparts.com/1960-72-...info/68%2D375/

On the cable adjustment, yours may be different but mine only has one cable, which controls the position of the diverter door between floor heat and defroster. I only have the following bad picture available, but perhaps the flagged screw they mention is the clamp bracket circled in the photo. This is how the length of the cable is adjusted on mine.