Gauge Cluster questions

[99 to Life]

I am just learning about all this wiring biz. I got some
clusters for a 51' chevy truck gas,temp,volts,oil

I am running a 12v set up with a 350 engine

When I look at buying replacement parts, they have ones
for 6v and 12v, so that led me to believe, I can't just wire
up my gas gauge to a 92' s-10 gas sending unit right?

Same goes for my heater switch and headlights, say I have
original switches, what would I have to do to run them on
my current setup?

I want to keep everything looking original but functioning with
more modern stuff. thanks

[mylow53]

6 volt switches seem to work I'm running my original headlight switch...the gas sending unit needs to match the correct ohm setting the gauge needs and also must be 12 volts. the temp gauge probably wont work either. the amp. gauge will work but be careful of overloading it they tent to cause fires it the draw is over 30 amps....
good luck
wheres the build pictures!!!
GT

[99 to Life]

thanks for the input

click on my link for the build link below, I got 3 pages right now.

[OrrieG]

There is a tech article at stovebolts.com on what is required to convert 6 to 12 v.

[sweet70beast]

For the head light switch I would run a relay because the newer headlights might pull more juice than the stock switch could probably handle.

[mylow53]

Originally Posted by sweet70beast

For the head light switch I would run a relay because the newer headlights might pull more juice than the stock switch could probably handle.

that may be true but i'm still running my original 1953 headlight switch with 100k candle halogen headlights. i've had this set up since 1985. mind you i didn't run it 100k miles but it still works... to be safe i could see you running a relay that i wont argue but it is possible to run the original
GT

[Dan Bowles]

6V wiring can handle more because it is thicker wire. Follow the Stovebolt.com list and you'll be fine. Unless you are running HIDs or something stronger than the standard sealed beams, you don't need a relay.

You'll need all new bulbs and one reducer for the fuel gauge from my recollection to go with a new coil.

Starter and horn will continue to work on 12V but be louder and faster. As long as it is for limited use, they should both last a long time. You might want to look at the heater fan, though.

[sweet70beast]

I run the original switch too but I guess i wasn't very clear, I actually meant the HID light and composite housings.

[Kid]

I ran halogen lites thru my original head light switch & worked for a while, then one night comming home from a car show, just cruising down the hiway & the lights went out till the circut breaker cooled down (that got my attention!). Just depends on how good of shape your head light switch is in. After my experience, I installed relays, don't want to relive going down the hiway at 70 MPH & loose my head lights again, it was a dark moonless night & couldn't even see the road.