and more brake issues - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

low'n slow · 06-12-2010, 09:51 PM

I recently converted my Jimmy to 2 wheel drive. I have new rotors, calipers and pads. The first few times I stop everything is OK. Then it appears that the left calper sticks engaged. Brakes get real hot. After cooling for awhile, they work great and then start the process all over again. Short of never using them, what do you suspect?

Thanks.

**N2TRUX** · 06-12-2010, 11:22 PM

Check for brake pad overlap. Seen it cause the pad to stick before, but usually on happens after a few miles are on the pads.

low'n slow · 06-12-2010, 11:34 PM

What is brake pad overlap? it has about 15 miles on it.

cdowns · 06-13-2010, 05:58 AM

do you have a proper disc/drum master cyl and proportioning valve assy? using a drum/drum srtup will cause the calipers to bind up and overheat

if they overheated you need at least new pads and to check calipers for warping

LONGHAIR · 06-13-2010, 08:05 AM

Did you replace the rubber lines? There have been issues with them collapsing internally, causing random dragging

**N2TRUX** · 06-13-2010, 10:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by low'n slow

What is brake pad overlap? it has about 15 miles on it.

If it only has 15 miles on the system then pad overlap is not a concern.

To answer your question, pad overlap is when the pads are glued on the backing plates to far outboard. As the wear, a portion of the pad remains intact protruding out from the worn pad surface. This can cause your pads to stick to the rotor and not release.

low'n slow · 06-13-2010, 11:59 AM

Yes, I have the proper master cylinder and proportioning valve. All new steel and rubber lines.

oldblue1968chevy · 06-13-2010, 06:12 PM

adj. rod OR (i had an extra gromit betwen booster/mc causing brakes to stick)

low'n slow · 06-14-2010, 07:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oldblue1968chevy

adj. rod OR (i had an extra gromit betwen booster/mc causing brakes to stick)

If the rod was too long, wouldn't it cause to brakes to drag all the time? This only drags after the brakes are used a few times.

raycow · 06-14-2010, 07:38 PM

If the rod was too long, both sides would drag, not just one. There is a similar thread running on the 67-72 board right now, still not fixed. Look for "At my wit's end".

I suggested checking for bent pins (that the caliper slides on). Haven't got an answer to that post yet.

Ray

low'n slow · 07-03-2010, 10:44 PM

The rod was too long. I shortened it, freshened up the brakes and all is well. Thanks for the help

06-12-2010, 09:51 PM	#1
low'n slow Too Dumb To Know Better Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Texas Posts: 882	and more brake issues I recently converted my Jimmy to 2 wheel drive. I have new rotors, calipers and pads. The first few times I stop everything is OK. Then it appears that the left calper sticks engaged. Brakes get real hot. After cooling for awhile, they work great and then start the process all over again. Short of never using them, what do you suspect? Thanks. Last edited by low'n slow; 06-12-2010 at 09:52 PM.

06-12-2010, 11:22 PM	#2
N2TRUX Happy to be here Join Date: Mar 2000 Location: Cypress, TX Posts: 39,021	Re: and more brake issues Check for brake pad overlap. Seen it cause the pad to stick before, but usually on happens after a few miles are on the pads. __________________ Follow me on Facebook and Instagram @N2trux.com Articles- "Jake" the 84 to 74 crewcab "Elwood" the77_Remix 85 GMC Sierra "Scarlett" "Refining Sierra"

06-12-2010, 11:34 PM	#3
low'n slow Too Dumb To Know Better Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Texas Posts: 882	Re: and more brake issues What is brake pad overlap? it has about 15 miles on it.

06-13-2010, 05:58 AM	#4
cdowns Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: daytonabeach Posts: 22,956	Re: and more brake issues do you have a proper disc/drum master cyl and proportioning valve assy? using a drum/drum srtup will cause the calipers to bind up and overheat if they overheated you need at least new pads and to check calipers for warping __________________ 71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY

06-13-2010, 11:59 AM	#7
low'n slow Too Dumb To Know Better Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Texas Posts: 882	Re: and more brake issues Yes, I have the proper master cylinder and proportioning valve. All new steel and rubber lines.

06-13-2010, 06:12 PM	#8
oldblue1968chevy Grandpa in the rustmobile... Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Spokane WA/Viola TN Posts: 11,422	Re: and more brake issues adj. rod OR (i had an extra gromit betwen booster/mc causing brakes to stick) __________________ John Goose-1968 C10 355,9.32-1CR, Vortec Heads ,262 voodoo, 3.73:1 3OTT (HS ride/beater/farm truck) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=317684 Grams 53-1953 Chevrolet Belair http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=1#post4327784 1969 Chevy C10 Shortbed 4.5/6?" Frame off resto http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=548136 1999 Toyota Tacoma 4x4

06-14-2010, 07:38 PM	#10
raycow Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: San Francisco, CA USA Posts: 2,454	Re: and more brake issues If the rod was too long, both sides would drag, not just one. There is a similar thread running on the 67-72 board right now, still not fixed. Look for "At my wit's end". I suggested checking for bent pins (that the caliper slides on). Haven't got an answer to that post yet. Ray

07-03-2010, 10:44 PM	#11
low'n slow Too Dumb To Know Better Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Texas Posts: 882	Re: and more brake issues The rod was too long. I shortened it, freshened up the brakes and all is well. Thanks for the help

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