Power steering box mounting problem/question

[Choptop32]

Ok, I bought my 65 panel all done with power steering in place. I did a 5 lug conversion on the front and rear, 2.5 drop spindles in front and 2 inch springs in front, new ball joints, new tie rod ends different size tires, different wheels... the works.

I take the truck on its shake down run and after about 700 miles (I go for long shake down runs ) there is a BIG dead spot in the steering. BAD. Turn the wheel... nothing happens. I figure everything just needs to be retourqued... I get it home and everything is as tight as a drum. No slop. The ball joints are all good, A arms are mounted firm. Everything is lubed just fine.

Note... before I did all the work above there was no dead spot in the steering.

So I have my wife get in the truck and rock the wheel back and forth in the dead spot in the steering, I get under the truck to see if I can see where the slop is coming from. Everything looks good... except.....

I can see the steering box rocking back and forth, and twisting the frame a little while its doing it. So I'm pretty sure I've found my source of the dead spot in the steering....

So I order up a CapitanFab steering box mounting plate to put on there and help stiffen things up some... I go to put it on today and find that the box is only attached with 3 bolts. One of the bolt ears is lined up the curve at the bottom of the frame and would not allow for a hole to be drilled to mount it.


sooooooooo.... my question is.... is my power steering box mounted in the wrong spot? What is the RIGHT spot for it to be mounted? Will the CapitanFab plate help me? Do I need a different power steering box and pitman arm? What power steering box do i have?

I've included pics.





Here is the ear that lines up with the curve in the frame and doesnt allow for a hole/bolt attachment.

[63sbssbbw]

There should be 2 plates,1 inside and 1 outside,the outside plate drops down to accomodate the lower bolt
Do a search for the Rez engineering kit and you'll see what I mean
CaptainFab also has an excellent conversion kit,check out the links in his sig.
If that doesn't fix it you'll need another box,but you'll need the kit anyway,so no harm no foul there.
Somebody didn't research that install very well.
T

[Choptop32]

So the Rez kit lets the box stay where it is and uses a extra bolt (pictured on the left below) to pick up the one "out of place" mounting ear/bolt hole...

while the Capt.Fab kits requires moving the box?

is that correct?

[Choptop32]

here is another question....

I have a 80-90's steering column... and it looks like the way it hooks up to the rag joint is different than is pictured in the instructions for either Capt.Fab's plate or the Rez plate....

so has mine already been "shortened" and/or is this coupler a sliding coupler that will take up some of the space should I need to move the box?

[protrash64]

I dont know what is shown in your picture, but if the column had been shortened by the REZ method it would be cut at the gear box end and the rag joint metal would be re-welded to the shaft.

Yours appears not to have been re-welded on the shaft.

[63sbssbbw]

Yes, correct
Cpt fab's kit moves the box up a bit so that all 4 bolts are contained within the framerail.Not a big deal,just a different way to skin the cat.
As far as box location it depends on whether the PO utilized the correct existing holes and drilled the proper new hole (the last one gets oblonged to fit).
Other things to consider are idler arm mount location(stock65 or later model to match the box)
Is all your linkage parallel with your frame and x-member.
Another thing to wonder about...has the PO had the box apart before you got it,if so,making sure ALL the ball bearings go back in in the CORRECT order is of the utmost importance,not to mention the final lash setting,any boo boos putting it back together would pretty much deem it unsafe to use,tihs "dead spot" could be the result of such an oversight.
I'm sure (I hope)someone that knows more than I do (my info is based on my research done before I did my conversion,all of which came from this great site) will chime in.
T

[padresag]

in your 4th picture down behind the botton bolt , there could be a crack there(or someone has out a scratch there). it doesn't look to healthy at the top of that bottom spacer . these frames are noted for cracking around those bolt holes esp, with mickey mouse spacing like that. it will be the craks that are more than likely causing the flexing
ron

[Captainfab]

There are definitely cracks stemming from that lower rear bolt hole in the frame. That is likely the source of your dead spot. What you'll need to do is remove that steering box and clean the frame very well and inspect for cracks from the bolt holes where the steering box was bolted. Then next vee out all the cracks on both sides of the frame. Some guys prefer to drill a small, say 1/8" hole at the ends of the cracks to prevent further cracking. Then those cracks will need to be welded up by a competant welder. The welds on the outside will need to be ground flush with the surface. Next follow the installation instructions with my adapter plate to position the plate on the frame. The other power steering conversions place only 3 of the 4 steering box bolts thru the frame. Mine positions all 4 of the steering box bolts thru the frame.

As for the steering column shaft, I'm not sure what all parts are being used there. It appears as though a flat has been ground on the upper section above the coupler. It looks as though the rag joint is in good condition, but the connections of the shafts look like they could use some help. I would disassemble the parts and inspect them and try and make a determination as to how to improve on it. If you have any questions regarding that feel free to PM me or simply post here in your thread.

[63sbssbbw]

Thanks Capt I knew you'd chime in
ps..I swear the op stated CustomFab not CaptainFab
No biggie
T